The Gourmand Syndrome

Bar Crudo

2010-02-15T13:24:00.000-07:00

Once upon a time Bar Crudo was nestled in a tiny nook on San Francisco's Bush Street. Getting a seat at the small bar felt like winning the lottery; much less landing an actual table. Because we often stay near Union Square when visiting the city the north of Union Square location made it a favorite spot for Happy Hour or a post-dinner snack. Over the years we've enjoyed several bubbly-induced nights at the restaurant's tiny counter, pounding oysters on the half shell and damning ourselves for not coming up with the raw bar concept first.

Since it has historically taken some effort to actually get a seat at Bar Crudo, I was rather surprised during our November visit to the city when, mere days out from Saturday night, I was able to book a table for Happy Hour via Open Table. Mystified, I continued to revisit the confirmation message on my BlackBerry to make sure I'd read the information correctly. Finally, it hit me what was indeed out of place: the restaurant was listed as being on Divisadero Street. Hence I came out from beneath the rock under which I'd been living to learn Bar Crudo had relocated to the Western Addition. As we realized that Saturday evening, the new location has all the charm and loft space as the old one, with a much more open and spacious main level. And with glowing candles in crannies along the wall and a mural of mermaids (the Bar Crudo logo) that is a cool version of the old T&A mudflaps, there is a certain sexiness to the new digs: perfect for dining on raw oysters.

Small Seafood Platter: 6 oysters, 3 shrimp, 3 mussels, 3 clams. 1/2 crab - $40

I wish every Saturday night began with a platter like this one. On this particular visit we shared this between two of us though we have been known to make it work for four people. Parties with bigger groups -- and wallets -- can get double the pleasure for double the price: the large platter has twice the portions and will run you $80.

Raw Fish: 4 pieces for $12

Arctic Char with horseradish cream, wasabi tobiko and dill
Hokkaido Scallops with celery root and roasted apple puree, truffle salt
Tombo Tuna with pear, hazelnut and pomegranate reduction
Butterfish with olive, orange vinaigrette, black garlic, shiso

A bit difficult to share if your intention is to try everything, but beautifully constructed pairings nonetheless.

Seafood Chowder - Fish, mussels, shrimp, squid, potatoes, applewood smoked bacon - $7

After trying this soup it is fair to say that I left my heart in San Francisco. Typically I am not a fan of overly spicy food (J would say that I find Dorito's spicy) but even he agreed this chowder had some kick to it -- and even I liked it! Maybe it was cayenne? The tang danced in perfect sync with the smokiness from the bacon and kept the chowder from tasting overly creamy. We shared the small cup, which was a decent portion for two given that this was our pre-dinner, but the zesty flavor had us scraping the bottom with our spoon and wanting to order a second.

- K

Bar Crudo
655 Divisadero Street
San Francisco, CA 94117
415.409.0679

Le Pigeon

2009-12-30T13:38:00.003-07:00

It's ironic that one of the few things I can correctly pronounce after seven years of French, le peejon, is irrelevant when it comes to this popular PDX communal dining spot. Yes, as wry as the nerd glasses and handlebar mustaches hipsters have taken to sporting, the pronunciation of luh pidjin is as American as hot dogs and baseball.

I started this post last month and got sidetracked, which is what happens when I blog with a glass of wine in hand. But Christmas morning I awoke to an email from our dear friends Kara and Ryan, former PDX residents now living in China. They'd managed to escape to Thailand--and the liberation of uncensored internet access--for a little holiday and had come upon our posting about Simpatica Dining Hall, a spot they initially introduced us to. They were not about to mince their words: "Cheaters, Cheaters, Cheaters" the subject line read. How could we possibly dine at Simpatica without them?

Let me say for the record, Simpatica sans Kara and Ryan was nowhere near as lovely as it is with our two incredible friends, whom we miss greatly. And so in the hope that reading about another of their favorite spots, Le Pigeon, will encourage Kara and Ryan to join us for a PDX dining reunion in 2010, I am going to finally finish this post. Kids, pack your bags...

Ricotta Gnocchi - $13

We were one bottle of sparkling wine in by the time we ordered, so somehow my fixation on the words "ricotta" and "gnocchi" strayed me from seeing the subsequent "goat." Nonetheless, I powered through this one, impressed with the creaminess the ricotta contributed to the gnocchi.

Beef Cheek Bourguignon - $21

Braised to the color of night and glazed with a rich broth J's hearty French favorite was sweet and tender.

Brussels Sprout Strudel - $19

Le Pigeon's dinner menu changes weekly, and is definitely meat heavy, but vegetarians can always find an option. This strudel, set atop mushrooms and a rather thin butternut squash puree, was packed with brussels sprouts but a bit on the light side for me.

Apricot Cornbread with Bacon and Maple Ice Cream - $7

If you can have just one course at Le Pigeon, I recommend heading right for the dessert menu, scrawled on a chalkboard above the communal dining table. The smokey, savory cornbread with little nibs of apricot baked in is a standard, along with foie gras profiteroles that cause extremists to run into the restaurant drenched in fake blood and screaming obscenities. A seasonal carrot cake was also on the menu board this particular evening, but we went right for the cornbread as it reminds us of Kara and Ryan, who first convinced me that bacon does have a place on a dessert menu.

- K

Le Pigeon
738 E Burnside Street
Portland, OR 97232
503.546.8796

Simpatica Dining Hall

2009-11-13T09:06:00.001-07:00

Oh, Portland. Sweet, wonderful, complicated Portland. What it lacks in jobs it makes up for in restaurants doing really interesting things. Take Simpatica Dining Hall: billed as a "dining hall, supper club and food resource" this catering business moonlights as a cozy, Lower Burnside basement restaurant offering one seating of dinner service both Friday and Saturday evenings, and a comfort-food themed Sunday brunch. A mere $35 will get you four dinner courses, with the menu changing every week based on what's available through the Farmer's Market and local farmers and purveyors. But let the words "dining hall" serve as your guide: you may need to share the dish of Marcona almonds with complete strangers.

Crispy Fried Razor Clams with Roasted Cauliflower, Venus Grapes and Capers

I loved getting things started with a hearty plate of seafood while J was enamored with the velvety roasted grapes.

Your Kitchen Garden Mizuna with Grapefruit Hearts and Roasted Beets

Light, refreshing and the perfect palate cleanser in preparation for...

Braised Piedmontese Beef Shortribs with Creamed Horseradish, Spaetzle, Young Parsnips and Carrots

Given my complex relationship with meat I am certainly not a connoisseur of shortribs. In fact, it is quite possible this course served as my shortribs deflowering. But the dumplings had me so giddy I found myself digging in, and the meat responded by literally sliding off the bone in silky strips...and right into my mouth.

Warm Beignets with Apple Confit and Caramel Sauce

The beignets arrived at our table still hot. While the coating of confectioner's sugar was a bit heavy (think choking on the cocoa powder atop a piece of Tiramisu) the caramel sauce provided relief in the way of some much-needed moisture.

The weekend dinner menu is posted every Wednesday and when you arrive at the restaurant the kitchen staff will take you on the journey of how they arrived at the evening's selections--and where everything was sourced from. Reservations can be submitted online or by contacting the restaurant directly. Don't forget to check out the recession-friendly wine list, with nothing over $39.

-K

Simpatica Dining Hall
828 SE Ash Street
Portland, OR 97214
503.235.1600

The High Cost of Being a Foodie: A Love Story

2009-11-04T19:23:00.002-07:00

Nearly everyone has one: a story, that is, about a pivotal meal that forever changed their relationship with food. For us it was a prix fixe menu at Seattle's now defunct (but soon-to-be-resurrected) Mistral, where a course of seared halibut bathed in vanilla foam invited us into a world in which meals can tell stories of what is in season, where people are from, and sometimes, where they are going.

For Samin Nosrat, whose story I had the good fortune of hearing recently on NPR, it was a dinner at Chez Panisse with her boyfriend that ignited her immense passion for food. The meal was the culmination of a year-long effort of saving spare change in a jar, and by the dessert course Nosrat admits she was a changed woman--even if she did ask for a glass of milk to enjoy with her chocolate souffle. In fact, she was so moved by the meal she wrote a letter to famed Chez Panisse proprietor Alice Waters, describing her food epiphany and asking for a job. In a turn of events that seems all too movie-like, Nosrat's wish was granted.

Sadly, Nosrat's recent interview on American Public Media's The Story was not simply a chat about falling in love with food, but rather, a bittersweet recount of the closure of Eccolo, the Berkeley restaurant she recently worked at which had been built with a careful focus on sustainability, but was taken down almost overnight by the economic recession. While at moments the story of a culinary dream unraveling is enough to break any foodie's heart, I was still moved by Nosrat's admirable refusal to cut corners just for the sake of keeping the doors open. You can listen to the story online here.

- K

So Cupcake

2009-10-14T21:20:00.001-06:00

You really do learn something new every day. For example, today I learned that October 14 is National Dessert Day. Now even though I am of the opinion that dessert should be enjoyed every day, I still find a day dedicated to sweets worth honoring. So, I've devoured a few squares of dark chocolate with sea salt, and I'm ready to cap off this important national holiday with a post dedicated to the new thing I learned last Friday: that Salt Lake City's cupcake scene was made a little sweeter this year with the addition of So Cupcake.

Tuesday through Saturday So Cupcake (which is tucked into a nondescript strip mall eqsue spot on Highland Drive) bakes a fresh array of six daily staple cupcakes and a sprinkling from their "specialty" list of nearly 50 additional combinations. Social networking junkies can even follow So Cupcake on Twitter or become fans on Facebook in order to stay up-to-date with the daily specialty selections. I arrived at So Cupcake just before closing on said day, so I was too late to get my hands on intriguing selections like the "So Pink Lemonade" or "So Rootbeer Float" but I did leave with a sixer that satisfied our dinner hosts:

Coco Delight, Hanky Panky Red Velvet, Key Lime, So Pumpkin, Starry Starry Night Vanilla (that would be the electric blue number) and another Coco Delight. - $2.50 each.

We found the cake itself to be more soft and moist than other spots we've visited, comparable in fact to that of the cult favorite Sprinkles. After a group taste test we voted the So Pumpkin most flavorful, the Coco Delight richest, and the Hanky Panky Red Velvet sexiest to look at. But cupcakes aren't the only sweet thing at So Cupcake: the owners, social workers by trade, ensure that daily leftovers are donated to area hospitals, shelters and nursing homes.

- K

So Cupcake
3939 S. Highland Drive
Salt Lake City, UT 84121
801.274.8300

Pago

2009-09-29T19:36:00.001-06:00

Given that we've been enjoying Sunday brunch at Pago nearly every weekend since they first expanded their lunch and dinner service in June, I don't have a good excuse for why it has taken so long to report about 9th & 9th's new hot spot. Perhaps I was subconsciously afraid that any additional praise will make it even harder to score a table for dinner! Drive by on any given night and Pago will likely be packed, with a minimum one-hour wait. (Which is GREAT news, just make sure to plan ahead and take Pago up on their willingness to accept reservations.) However I still find that when I rave about the brunch menu, people are surprised to learn Pago serves brunch. And it simply wouldn't be fair to keep a good Sunday meal option in town a secret.

Owner Scott Evans and co-executive chefs Adam Findlay and Michael Richey are committed to providing a farm-to-table experience at Pago, carefully seeking out quality locally-sourced products, including: beets from East Farms, heirloom tomatoes from Traces and wall art from talented Salt lake City-based artist Zach Hixson. The menus are altered seasonally and based on availability, but two brunch favorites admittedly make us wish summer could stay forever:

Almond French Toast - Almond Crust, Berry Compote, Vermont Maple Syrup - $9

The berries were at their peak for this sweet plate of comfort food. Almonds nestled within the slabs of toast added some crunch to the otherwise soft bread, giving the added benefit of helping to lower one's blood cholesterol--which may come in handy after a meal like this one.

Pago Salmon - House cured salmon, heirloom tomatoes, blini, yogurt - $9

During our first brunch at Pago I had the Croque Madame, but after that it has been purely Pago Salmon, Pago Salmon, Pago Salmon, with a side of eggs over easy ($3) and a glass of prosecco ($7), of course. Each time the tomatoes have been slightly different, and the cucumbers have ranged from being chopped, sliced or (once) MIA, but always this dish is fresh and savory--and doesn't feel like a heart attack on a plate.

I do wish Pago's wine markup was a little more accessible (the $7 glass of prosecco is five ounces of Adami, which retails for about $14/bottle at the DABC) but I can also respect the fact that Evans is in business to turn a profit--and not simply fulfill the dreams of all who have long awaited a neighborhood spot this cozy, intentional and refined.

- K

Pago
878 South 900 East
Salt Lake City, UT 84102
801.532.0777

Forage

2009-09-15T17:45:00.001-06:00

I may complain incessantly about not being able to buy wine at the grocery store, but with the addition of restaurants like TIPICA and Pago, even I have to admit that Salt Lake City is only getting better. Then there's Forage, which has brought an entirely new level of fine dining to town. Money may not be able to buy happiness, but as we learned during our recent trip to Forage, it can buy one beautifully crafted, entirely unprecedented SLC meal.

We decided to celebrate our 10-year wedding anniversary with Forage's 10 course tasting menu, which is $79 per person. The restaurant also offers a three course tasting menu for $39, which is a very reasonable equivalent of what an appetizer, entree and dessert would run you at any restaurant--even those unnamed chains pushing free bread sticks. While the course options for Forage's three course menu were carefully detailed, the staff were a little evasive when we inquired what the 10-course tasting menu would entail, promising only that we would enjoy some things that were on the menu--and some things that were not. Personally, shelling out that kind of dough for dinner is a treat: I at least want some foreplay by way of a menu. But all was forgiven as the courses started coming...

Amuse Bouche: Tomato Garlic Croquette

More Amuse: Poached Egg with Maple

Big Eye Tuna "Mi Cuit" with Fresh Polenta, Tomatoes and Pine Nut Vinaigrette

Atlantic Fluke "Sashimi Style" Cucumber, Olive Oil and Chives

Vegetable Garden - Seasonal Selection and Summer Herbs

Summer Squash Risotto Without Rice, Tomato and Garlic, Crispy Squash Blossoms

Sea Scallop, Corn, Chorizo, Jalapeno

Braised Shellfish, Shrimp, shellfish Essence, Sea Beans

As night fell and the wine bottle emptied, the quality of the photos started to go downhill, but the food most certainly did not...

Niman Ranch "Poulet Rouge" Napa Cabbage, Potato Confit, Mushroom Ragu, Bacon

Roasted Colorado Lamb, Chick Pea Gnocchi, Smoked Paprika

Beef Strip Loin, Tomato Confit, King Oyster Mushroom, Potato Puree, Nasturtium

Goat and Sheep's Milk Cheese - Courtesy of Tony Caputo's Market and Deli

At this point we switched to dessert wine, and the photos digressed even further...

Chilled Passion Fruit Soup, Soft Vanilla Cake, Compressed Melons, Lime Sorbet

Bear Lake Raspberries, Rose Custard Cake, Black Sesame Croquant, Yogurt Sorbet

The irony, which we realized by the end of our three-and-a-half-hour meal, was that the 10 course menu had indeed consisted of everything listed on the overall menu. As the night wound down, chefs Bowman Brown and Viet Pham visited each and every table (unfortunately though there were only three including us) to chat with guests, which I thought was a lovely gesture on their part, and hopefully, a tradition. On our next visit (which can't come soon enough) our budget will have us more bound to the three courses for $39 route. If you've driven by the transformed house on 900 South but have yet to venture in, don't let the white linens and elegantly minimal interior fool you: Forage is approachable. It is also unmatched. They even sent us home at the end of the evening with little individually wrapped pound cakes, a touch which reminded us of dining at NYC's Bouley. Needless to say, Salt Lake City's food scene has long been waiting for a culinary journey like this one: Forage is worthy of the support to indicate such.

- K

Forage Restaurant
370 East 900 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
801.708.7834

Skillet

2009-08-24T19:51:00.001-06:00

During our recent trip to Seattle I was enlightened to learn that even people who work at über hip places like Seattle's mobile restaurant Skillet have bad days at work. On Fridays no less.
 
On this particular cold, gray Seattle late morning Skillet was parked in Queen Anne for its lunch service. Upon our arrival, it was clear the morning was off to a rough start for its crew. A woman ahead of us ordered a burger and we dutifully followed suit, upping our order of two burgers and a side of poutine with cheddars, gravy and herbs, which I'd been dreaming about for weeks. A sweet kid with a folding table and cash box reminiscent of elementary school bake sales took our dough, only to be informed moments later by a voice from deep within the bowels of the airstream that three burgers would not be possible. Glancing at my watch, I was admittedly a tad confused, seeing as it was barely 11:00 a.m., the official start time for Skillet's lunch service. In a completely selfless and "pay it forward" manner, the woman who had ordered burger numero uno turned to us and said, "Have you had the burger before?" I confessed that no, we had not, adding for extra sympathy that we were in town from Utah, and were aching to try Skillet. "I can get the burger anytime," she assured us. "You take it and I'll have the roasted pork instead." Seemed simple--and entirely kind--enough.

We soon realized the key issue at stake was not the number of burgers on hand but rather the Airstream's hood, which had decided to get an early start on the weekend and was filling the vehicle with smoke anytime they tried to fire up the grill. But the chef du jour powered through, delivering:

The Burger: Oregon Natural Beef, Cambazola, Arugula, Bacon Jam, Soft Roll, Handcut French Fries - $7.50

True to my complicated relationship with meat I am clearly no connoisseur of burgers, so my praise (that the burger was juicy, the bacon jam a savory alternative that appeased my disappointment over the absence of cheese) may fall on deft ears. But J is quite the epicure when it comes to this American Classic, and for a roach coach with a bum hood he was notably impressed. Now burger enthusiast he may be, but ketchup fan he is not--yet he found the house-made ketchup at Skillet actually tasted like fresh, summer tomatoes.    

We were still dusting fry salt off our hands when a Budget rental van pulled up and the trailer was hitched to the back, pulling the plug on Skillet's Friday afternoon in Queen Anne. Many thanks to the stranger who went with the roasted pork sandwich in order to make our Skillet burger dreams a reality.

- K

Skillet Street Food
Refer to the web site for a location near you

Black Bottle

2009-08-18T21:53:00.000-06:00

Comedian Chelsea Handler recommends spending one full week each year with one's family. Personally, I find a slightly modified version of this--two to three days at a time, two to three times throughout the year--works best, and keeps my parents at bay on issues like 1) Why didn't I catch an earlier ferry to their place and 2) Why haven't I produced any grandchildren.

These carefully constructed jaunts to the Pacific Northwest are also most successful when they begin and end with an eating spree in Seattle. During our recent stopover in the Emerald City we happened upon urban tavern Black Bottle. Even though the Belltown hangout was closed during our first stroll by at 3:30 in the afternoon, it still looked positively welcoming: wrought iron tables lined its sidewalk and large glass windows told the story of a place that would be bustling by 5 with neighbors ready to usher in the weekend. A menu printed in lowercase (since Happy Hour has no place for punctuation) and posted at the door divided the locally-sourced selections into six mouth-watering and reasonably-priced categories: meat, seafood, veggies, flatbread, "also" (read sides) and sweets all priced at or under $12 (with most coming in at $8). But while the prices and descriptions may suggest small plates, the dishes we tried were anything but.

Lemon Caper Squid Salad: $8

Fresh and light, this salad came with a bounty of calamari considering the nominal price tag.

Fresh Sardines Namban: $8

Delicately fried fillets married with vinegar, soy sauce, onion and hot and sweet peppers.

Black Bottle's wine markup looked to be upwards of 100% in some cases, but fortunately is still approachable enough for those of us who don't have stock in Microsoft. We settled on a 2007 Steele Wines Cab Franc ($38) served in rather dinky wine glasses which, unlike the bar's food menu, did leave something to be desired. It was the motivation we needed to make our way to my parents' house and the refuge of their more bulbous glassware.

- K

Black Bottle
2600 1st Avenue + Vine
Seattle, WA 98121
206.441.1500

Main Street Wine Cellar

2009-08-13T22:06:00.001-06:00

Back when I was a dichotomous wallflower/sixth grade cheerleader living in the Bay Area, urban legend had it that the kids in the neighborhood had a not-so-PG-13 use for Pop Rocks. Following the candy's hiatus from--and eventual return to--the market, folks south of the bay have found a much more civilized--but admittedly less scandalous--use for the cult classic: imbedding the carbonated candy in truffles.

At Seal Beach's Main Street Wine Cellar, $10 will get you a flight of six chocolates prepared by So-Cal artisan Chuao Chocolatier--one of which will snap, crackle and pop in your mouth. I suppose I have just blown the surprise on the above-referenced "Firecracker" truffle, but I do so in the hope that people will seek out this nifty little piece of nostalgia enveloped in adulthood.

Front and right you'll find the Firecracker, complete with chipotle, salt and popping candy. Other selections include:

Melao - Salt butter caramel filled
Pan con Chocolat - Roasted Panko bread, olive oil ganache and sea salt (even hubba hubba Bobby Flay is talking about it)
Framboise - Raspberry "pate de fruit" layered over almond hazelnut prailine
Grignottines White - White chocolate with roasted and carmelized almond slivers, pistachio and orange peel
Gran Cacao - Bittersweet ganache with 73% cacao

Never one to abandon my roots, we chased the chocolate with a bottle of Northern Cal's Mumm Napa Sparkling Rosé.

The mood at Main Street Wine Cellar (which recently replaced the previous tenant, Vino Voyage) was pleasantly easy and unpretentious: we strolled in with sand between our toes and swimsuits under our clothes, but still we were allowed to indulge in chocolate, wine and adolescent memories in absolute peace.

- K

Main Street Wine Cellar
302 Main Street
Seal Beach, CA 90740
562.430.3200

Bear Flag Fish Co.

2009-07-30T20:34:00.002-06:00

Leave it to Vanessa Chang to be able to direct us to a find like Bear Flag Fish Co. Nestled among the chain crab shacks and yacht clubs of Newport Beach, this fish market located just blocks from the shore takes fresh fish to a whole new level: selections from the case can be grilled up right there in the way of tacos, rice bowls, salads and sandwiches.

Those needing to thaw out after hitting the Pacific surf can curl up with a bowl of Cioppino or clam chowder.

Pescado Tacos: Mahi Mahi and Swordfish - $2.99 each

Rice Bowl: Grilled Ahi Tuna, Brown Rice and Sauteed Veggies - $10.99 with white rice, a buck extra for the brown.

Now if we can just convince our home fish mongers at Aquarius Fish Company to follow suit, we'll have no need to hit the OC again until the snow falls.

- K

Bear Flag Fish Co.
407 31st Street
Newport Beach, CA 92663
949.673.FISH (3474)

Left Fork Grill

2009-07-10T19:33:00.002-06:00

Last year I wanted to celebrate my birthday with my mom's homemade chocolate cream pie. But with mom miles away, and not a pie dish to my name, I set out in search of a local bakery that either sold them--or was willing to make one as a special request. Sadly, I was SOL.

Fortunately by the time this year came along Salt Lake Magazine had published its 11th Annual Dining Awards, giving me the opportunity to read about Left Fork Grill, home of the "Best Breakfast" in town and apparently, some pretty spectacular pies.

I phoned Left Fork Grill about a week out from my birthday and was thrilled to learn that indeed they could whip up a chocolate cream pie to order. I was feeling extra special when the woman on the other end of the line directed me to retrieve my pie "after 11:00 a.m." on said day. My birthday pie was not going to be made the night before.

$21.75 with tax, Left Fork Grill's chocolate cream pie even came in a hefty Pyrex dish.

First slice of the pie...

Thankfully my mom's on dial-up and doesn't hit the internet much, because I have to confess that this little slice of pie takes the cake! Day one the crust was so incredibly fresh and even a little bit salty. And just as a fresh pie should, this baby digressed in flavor just slightly each day over the four days it took us to polish it off, suggesting the obvious: a pie this tasty is meant to be enjoyed, not preserved.

- K

Left Fork Grill
68 W 3900 S
Salt Lake City, UT 84107
(801) 266-4322

Madena of the Pearl

2009-07-05T21:15:00.004-06:00

I am of the opinion that it is important, wherever one should live, to have a go-to spot that is good, affordable and accessible. During moments of hunger-induced crankiness or Monday-bred mental exhaustion, said spot quickly provides nourishment without forcing you to actually have to think.

When we lived in Portland, Madena of the Pearl was indeed my no-brainer spot. A hop, skip and a jump from our digs, we ventured to this cozy restaurant at least twice a week for lunch or dinner. Weather permitting, we favored sitting at one of their outdoor tables, though settling into one of the handful of indoor booths was not without its benefits, as it meant we could thumb through the house coffee table book on Lebanon. Pita bread and a mini history lesson.

Hummus: Garbanzo bean dip with Tahini sauce, lemon juice, olive oil and garlic - $5.25

Creamy, tangy and perfectly smooth. This Hummus has set the bar so high that I have a hard time eating it anywhere else. Even Hummus enjoyed authentically in the Middle East didn't come close.

Coco Chicken: Marinated chicken breast in herbs, spices and garlic. Topped with coco curry sauce - $7.50 for lunch portion (shown) which includes two sides of Hummus and/or Baba Ghanoush.

The only chicken I go out of my way to eat, this spicy, sweet dish somehow manages to complement every season (or at least every Pacific Northwest season).

- K

Madena of the Pearl
432 NW 11th Ave.
Portland, OR 97209
503.231.1000

Evoe

2009-06-29T17:55:00.005-06:00

After enjoying some Willamette Valley pinot at Oregon Wines on Broadway, we needed a little fuel to tie us over until our late dinner reservation at Beast. With small plates ranging in price from $4.50 to $12, Hawthorne's relatively new establishment, Evoe, was both appetite and budget friendly. Settled into an extra space that specialty food store Pastaworks had used over the years for catering prep or storage, Evoe is casual and uncomplicated. Snacks are scrawled on chalkboards above the open "kitchen," which is equally straightforward--consisting of little more than Butcher Block counters, a griddle and an old school oven. The menu is constructed from the shelves of Pastaworks, and changes with the swipe of an eraser. My favorite detail about this "enlightened snack bar?" Customers can select a bottle from the retail store and pay a nominal $5 corkage fee to enjoy it at Evoe.

Deviled Eggs

The beginnings of an Artichoke, Fennel, and Guanciale Little Gem Salad w/Vinaigrette

...and the end result.

Peas on Toast

Chevre Chaud with Arugula

Pork Pâté

Front man/chef Kevin Gibson (formerly of Castagna) and his sidekick were not chatty by any means, but I'd venture to suggest that they may also be a bit misunderstood. Perhaps I have no right to say this, since we are alas just "visitors" to Portland and no longer call it home, but I think the handful of people who have flocked to web sites like Yelp to give this place the finger for being stuffy and pretentious just need to give it another chance. The gentlemen were indeed quiet and a bit reserved, and my initial reaction was to think our party was being vibed when we asked if we could sit at the counter and watch them work, only to be encouraged to take a table in the corner instead. But we were persistent and took up residence at the bar. After engaging them in conversation about their cutlery, kitchen and cuisine, we walked away feeling like these two are closer to being self-effacing bookworms than pompous foodies. In fact, the pâté was on the house.

- K

Evoe
3731 S.E. Hawthorne Blvd.
Portland, OR 97214
Noon to 7:00 p.m.
Wednesday - Sunday

MetroVino Bistro, Bar & Bottle Shop

2009-06-24T19:44:00.001-06:00

Portland has been hit hard by the economic recession, as a walk through our former neighborhood, The Pearl, solidified. Stores once selling $40 candles are now abandoned, and the cover of a newspaper in a street bin reads, “Unemployment at 12.6 percent.” It seems everyone we know has a horror story to back up this figure, having either lost their own job or faced survivor guilt after watching colleagues lose theirs. “Have you been back up to NW 21st/23rd?” asked the host at Wine and Unwind. We shook our heads. “Don’t,” she cautioned. “Every other store is empty…it will break your heart.”

Yet for every business venture gone south there seems to be an inspirational story of a person who is seizing the opportunity to exercise their entrepreneurial muscle. One such silver lining is MetroVino. Housed at the ground level of the Bridegport Condominiums, in the curved corner space that was at one time occupied by DF, this new wine bar caught our attention with their Happy Hour, offered from 4-6--even on Saturdays. Small plates like roasted beet salad and salmon bruschetta can be enjoyed at a recession-friendly half-price, and a variety of cocktails and wines come in at just $5.

3 Oysters: Cucumber Mignonette, Ponzu Wasabi and Horseradish Cocktail - $5

Salmon Graviax Bruschetta: Grapefruit, Basil, Edamame Purée - $4

Tataki of Hawaiin Yellowtail: Radish, Meyer Lemon and White Soy - $9

Labeled as a restaurant, bar and retail shop all in one, MetroVino is the brain child of owner and GM Todd Steele. In a rather romantic nod to his love of wine, Steele purchased seven Enomatic wine preservation machines to preserve his “by the taste or glass” offerings before landing the actual space to make his restaurant a reality. While the Happy Hour menu is appropriately light, the dinner menu is rather hearty, with quail, pork shoulder and braised beef short ribs all making an appearance. This is definitely one stop to make a part of your own personal American Recovery and Reinvestment Act.

- K

MetroVino
1139 NW 11th Avenue (NW 11th & Northrup)
Portland, OR 97209
503.517.7778

Teru Sushi

2009-06-03T20:16:00.003-06:00

When children first get their braces off they tend to rush to previously-forbidden treats like bubble gum and potato chips. For J, who spent the past year and a half of his late thirties sporting a grill, the two things he couldn't wait to sink his newly freed teeth into were sushi and a bottle of G.H. Mumm.

Salt Lake City has a collection of respectable sushi joints, but most of them can also quickly break the bank. After treating ourselves to the bottle of champagne we wanted to keep the party going -- but on a budget. Teru Sushi may be tucked away in a Fort Union area strip mall, but their sushi rivals that of other, more popular sushi restaurants in town. And whereas we usually leave some of the other establishments still hungry after dropping close to a c-note, we always manage to get out of Teru Sushi perfectly satisfied, and for nearly half the price.

Rainbow Roll: Salmon, Tuna, Yellowtail - $7.50

Spicy Tuna Roll - $6.75

Alaska Roll: Crab, Avocado, Fresh Salmon - $6.50

Smokey Roll: Eel, Crab Salad, Smoked Salmon - $6.75

Charley Roll: Deep Fried Ebi, Scallop, Tuna, Hamachi - $7.50

At Teru Sushi you won't find concrete slab countertops or servers who are emulating Lauren Conrad. But slip in on a quiet weekday night and owner Mrs. Luong will deliver miso soup like a doting mother, and make you feel as though you are dining at her kitchen table.

- K

Teru Sushi
1844 E. 7000 S., #3
Cottonwood, UT 84121
801.943.0484
(Open for lunch M-F, Dinner M-Sat.)

TIPICA

2009-05-31T21:26:00.001-06:00

***Editor's Note: Less than a year into its much-anticipated debut, TIPICA has left the building. I first heard the rumor at a dinner party late last month, and a quick google search when I arrived home that night confirmed the rumor's truth: TIPICA would close January 31, 2010. After visiting the restaurant several weeks back I was not entirely surprised by the news. Chef Kreisel seemed to have the weight of the world on his shoulders as he scanned the quiet dining room, but he was also hopeful that some planned menu modifications might attract more customers. I'm not sure what transpired in the weeks that followed, but I do know that this is a loss for our city. Like many, we scaled back our dining out over the past year in response to job uncertainty as a result of the recession. In a good year, we would have likely visited TIPICA much more frequently. Construction of modern condos near the restaurant also slowed with the economic downturn, and I am convinced that if it had only been filled with residents, TIPICA would have had a healthy crowd looking for an excuse not to cook dinner on a Wednesday night. Some say the health-conscious maybe had the misconception the menu was all pasta and risotto. The reality is that the closing of the restaurant is probably not this simple, but it is saddening all the same.

TIPICA, the latest project from the people who brought vibrancy -- and a cheese cave -- to downtown Salt Lake City is finally here after much anticipation. It was last summer when we first learned that Tony Caputo's Market and Deli was planning to transform its deli into a dinner spot by night; we've since enjoyed following the progress during weekly visits to stock up on an array of vices from the marketplace. We became Adam Kreisel fans during his stint as chef at Acme Burger Company, and the idea of combining his creativity with the forward-thinking vision of Caputo’s is a recipe destined for greatness.

I’ve had a special place in my heart for Tony Caputo’s Market and Deli ever since their meatball sandwich knocked me right off the vegetarian wagon I'd been riding on nearly a decade ago. The line, “I'm vegetarian with the exception of meatballs from Caputo’s,” quickly wore thin and the jig was up. Like some recovering vegetarians, my “born again” relationship with meat exists in a complex and admittedly compartmentalized zone I like to refer to as “denial.” Carpaccio is a favorite, but sweetbreads were checked off my “life list” only by accident. That said, I have a deep appreciation for the “nose-to-tail” philosophy: if you are going to (insert euphemism) send an animal to swim with the fishes, at least show it the respect of utilizing as much of it as you can. Leave it to Kreisel and the pioneers at Caputo’s to introduce this concept to Salt Lake City’s still-growing dining community.

Amuse Bouche - Risotto Cakes with Meyer Lemon Marscapone and Micro Greens

Scallop Crudo, Shaved Fennel, Braised Kale, Lobster Vinaigrette - $10

TIPICA'S web site lists this plate at $12, but I am pretty sure the printed menu at the restaurant had it coming in at $10, which seems more realistic. Raw scallops likely aren't for everyone, and Kreisel indicated that opinions have been pretty split on this one. I for one enjoyed their cool texture, nestled within the salad's Napolean-esque presentation.

Roasted Cauliflower with Balsamic Glaze, Parsley sprigs - $5

If all veggies were served like this J would never fall short of the food pyramid's daily recommendations. He thoroughly enjoyed the slightly charred intro, followed by the nuttiness of the cauliflower and finally, the sweet finish provided by the balsamic.

Lamb Neck and Shoulder Ragout with Creamy Polenta, Micro Fennel - $18

J reports that the meat was soft, moist and balanced in flavor: not overly pungent yet with a nice earthiness to it. The dish was, as he put it, "how lamb should be." He ventured to suggest its subtle flavor might pleasantly surprise those who typically steer clear of lamb.

Heirloom Squash, Ricotta & Chestnut Honey Ravioli with Sage Cream, Wild Mushrooms, Arugula - $15

A rather hearty dish and a culmination of so many of my favorite things. Kreisel hand makes the ravioli, which is evident in the thick folds of pasta. The fresh arugula helped to take the edge off the richness of the sage cream.

As for the dining room, mustard-toned curtains give TIPICA a willowy feel while concealing the soda machines, cash register and other evidence of the daytime deli. Unfortunately, the curtains also hide the kitchen from diners; the voyeurs in us had wanted to watch Kreisel et al at work.

TIPICA'S menu may be small, but it offers something for everyone: carnivores, omnivores, herbivores -- and those of us who reside somewhere in between. Favoring local, sustainable sources Kreisel intends to change things up frequently. It will be interesting to watch the selections evolve with the region's very distinct four seasons.

We were quite pleased with the restaurant's affordable wine list and very minimal wine markups...so much so that we ordered a bottle of Marques de Gelida cava ($23) to enjoy in addition to the bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape we'd brought from home. With a food menu of nothing over $20 and a wine list this approachable, TIPICA, like Caputo's Market and Deli, is in touch with what our community wants and needs. We look forward to its progression.

- K

TIPICA
314 W. 300 S.
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
801.328.0222

Farmerie 58

2009-05-28T20:42:00.001-06:00

We happened upon Farmerie 58 while en route to check out another restaurant, but were so famished that we quickly succumbed to its sunny patio (and for J) the promise of a burger.

Using products that are farmed sustainably, Farmerie 58 strives to offer a wide-ranging menu that is affordable to the River North neighborhood's residents -- and not just its visitors. Selections go from simple (grilled chicken salad) to saucy (white chocolate bread pudding with roasted quince, caramel popcorn, and vanilla anglaise) in an effort to meet everyone's needs.

Lobster Bisque - Diced Lobster Meat, Lemon, Parsley - $10

Your standard lobster bisque, only prettier.

Bistro Burger - Tallgrass® Beef, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Smoked Cheddar, Dijon Aioli - $12

Nice and juicy. The grass-fed beef had a great flavor, though J would have preferred a hamburger bun over the thick slabs of Focaccia.

Pan-Roasted Wild Salmon BLT - Applewood Smoked Bacon, Tomato, Tarragon Aioli,
Wild Lettuces, Red Wine Vinaigrette - $12

A fun retreat from the traditional BLT. I loved the sweet potato chips, which were still hot, slightly chewy and glistening with just a hint of oil.

And with that we had the fuel we needed to head out in search of the Vosges Boutique on Michigan...

- K

Farmerie 58
58 E. Ontario and Rush Street
Chicago, IL 60611
312.440.1818

North Pond

2009-05-26T19:36:00.003-06:00

Typically when blogging about a trip's eats I like to follow the course of the trip from beginning to end, creating a "virtual photo album" if you will. However in the case of our recent visit to Chicago, I simply must start at the end, and a restaurant which successfully combines atmosphere and approach for one particularly noteworthy meal.

Situated in Lincoln Park, North Pond is housed in a circa 1912 former ice skating shack, aptly located at the north end of a pond. The restaurant operates on a seasonal schedule, offering dinner and Sunday brunch year-round, and adding a weekday lunch service June through September.

Chef Bruce Sherman's manner of cooking with what's fresh, local and in season is rooted in the three and a half years he spent living in New Delhi, India. Through daily jaunts to the corner vegetable vendor, Sherman learned to develop meals around what was available. The experience, combined with his subsequent education at Ecole Superieure de Cuisine Francaise, has been parlayed into a positively inviting, creative restaurant which should be at the top of every culinary list when visiting the Windy City.

To toast a friend's milestone birthday we visited North Pond for Sunday brunch and the three course prix-fixe menu for $32. Though the menu is prix-fixe, the range of selections we found on this particular Sunday offered a diverse array of options for those with a hankering for sweet, savory or a little bit of both.

First things first: the view of downtown Chicago from North Pond's porch.

Steak and Egg - Poached Farm Egg, grilled Hanger Steak Medallions, Artisanal Grits, Spring Onions, Frisée

A refined take on homestyle cooking.

Ramps, Cheese - Wild Ramp-Uplands Cheese and Prosciutto Crêpes, Potato Chips, Watercress Salad, Cherry Vinaigrette

With seasonal delicacies like ramps and cherries this dish was a fitting celebration of spring, and proof positive of Sherman's culinary style.

Lemon, Strawberries - Lemon Curd Tartelette, Strawberry Jam, Toasted Pistachios, White Chocolate, Meringue

A thoughtful and well-executed work of art. The tangy combination of flavors served to cleanse my palette following the rich crêpes.

I recommend making reservations when visiting North Pond, and in doing so, you may even receive special arrangements. In the case of our meal, we arrived to find that our menus had been printed with a personalized message for the birthday girl in our group, and the server even brought her a glass of bubbly, compliments of the house. Now that's my idea of a celebration.

- K

North Pond
2610 N. Cannon Drive
Chicago, IL 60614
773.477.5845

Red Iguana

2009-05-16T18:12:00.001-06:00

When my parents decided to pay us a visit over Mother's Day Weekend, mom made one thing clear: Mother's Day brunch was not to involve anything remotely approaching an omelette station. Fortunately what I had up my sleeve was far more exciting than a chocolate fountain and all-you-can-eat petits fours.

Many years ago the menu at Salt Lake City institution Red Iguana promoted paella as being available via special order for parties of two or more. I'm not certain when the Spanish dish of saffron rice, sausage, chicken and seafood disappeared off the printed menu, but every now and then it still makes an appearance on the specials board. Paella was always a favorite in my family growing up, but enjoying it also meant that mom had to make it happen.

Determined to serve mom this special dish on Mother's Day--without actually having to prepare it--we visited the folks at Red Iguana and discovered they would indeed make the family favorite for our party at $24.99 per person. We were sold.

We arrived at the Red Iguana on Mother's Day, armed with a bottle of rosé and healthy appetites. Something about the moved expression on mom's face immediately told us this was going to be a memorable meal. Indeed, following starter salads and guacamole, an entourage of people including the chef, owners and our server proudly carried the paella to our table with much pomp and circumstance. We learned then that the chef who typically prepared Red Iguana's paella was back in Mexico, but his brother had stepped up to the plate to prepare our beautiful meal. As he stood at our table beaming, I took stock in the incredibly rich moment. We were strangers bonding over a dish for presumably differing reasons, but ultimately, I'd like to think, a shared appreciation for the value of a meal spent with the people you love. As we began to dig in to our lunch, the chef et al returned to the kitchen, followed moments later by a round of applause, celebrating a job well done.

The above-pictured dish was created for our party of five, and after everyone had seconds, J and I were still able to take home enough for dinner the following night. We all loved the addition of green olives, which mom's recipe does not call for. But more important than the food was the unique experience the folks at Red Iguana helped us put together in appreciation of a very special lady.

- K

Red Iguana
736 West North Temple
Salt Lake City, UT 84116
801.322.1489

BLT Burger

2009-04-22T20:27:00.001-06:00

When I was in the third grade I wrote an essay about preserving a memento from each season: a snowball tucked away in the icebox, a fall leaf pressed into a Judy Blume novel, a four-leaf clover suspended in glass and a vial of water from the waterslide park. My theory was that if a season never came again, I'd always have something from it. Some 25 years later, the past winter season had started to feel like life imitating art, with cold, snowy days dragging well into April. I was beginning to feel like spring was never going to return to Salt Lake City. In dire need of some sun, we decided to head south in search of warm weather and poolside margaritas: Viva Las Vegas!

Enjoy the sun we did, but after taking a gander at the pool's food menu we decided to make our way to BLT Burger, Laurent Tourendel's adaptation of the American burger joint. Plunked down inside The Mirage on the Las Vegas Strip, the dimly lit spot offers a nice blend of classic and creative fare--with some great people watching.

Campfire Marshmallows Milkshake - $7

Vanilla ice cream and toasted marshmallows. Little slivers of marshmallow even slid up the straw, adding to drink's authenticity. I only wish it had been delivered a little closer to when the burger was, and without such a heafty price tag.

The Classic With Blue Cheese - $13

7oz. grilled certified Black Angus beef. The meat was well-seasoned and had a nice beefy flavor, but could have been a tad more moist. The bun on the other hand was just right: soft and flavorful without overpowering the beef.

Turkey Burger with Blue Cheese - $12

All white meat natural turkey breast ground with fresh herbs. The adjective that keeps coming to mind with this one is wholesome, which I realize is somewhat ironic considering the surroundings. But the turkey was cooked to perfection, tasted pure and simple and didn't feel like a gut bomb when it came time to get back into my swimsuit.

- K

BLT Burger
3400 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.792.7888

Braised Octopus with Lemon Risotto

2009-04-14T21:02:00.001-06:00

Weekends at our house just aren't complete without a trip to Aquarius Fish Co. At the very minimum, a dozen oysters--enjoyed on the half-shell with a bottle of bubbly--is a menu staple. Beyond that, given that the market's seafood selection changes daily, we don't always know going in just what's for dinner: in fact, many meals are developed in the car on the way home.

On a recent visit to Aquarius we had the good fortune of picking up a frozen octopus. At $2.99 a pound (and weighing in at two pounds) it looked more like a Bocce ball than dinner, but J had a vision. Inspired by a dish at San Francisco's Quince, he set out to prepare braised octopus with his own twist: served on a bed of lemon risotto. The evolution went something like this:

Braised Octopus:

One 2-lb. octopus
Two cups dry white wine
One white onion (chopped)
One cup tomatoes (skinned and chopped)
Two garlic cloves (sliced)
One lemon (zested and juice reserved)
Four Tbsp. olive oil (combined)
One tsp. paprika
Two bay leaves
One tsp. fresh thyme
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper

Rinse octopus and cut tentacles from the head. Slice tentacles into one inch pieces and discard smaller end pieces. Combine octopus pieces with two tablespoons olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, paprika, thyme, salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Toss and coat well. Cover and marinate for about 30 minutes.

After the octopus has marinated, heat remaining two tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and bay leaves and cook until onion is translucent (about eight minutes). Add white wine, tomatoes and octopus. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for about an hour and a half until octopus is tender and can be easily pierced with a fork. (The longer and slower it is cooked, the more tender the octopus will become.)

As for the lemon risotto recipe, J reached for this adaptation of one from Da Filippo in Sorrento, courtesy of Saveur.

The octopus was meaty and rich without the potential "rubbery" texture that can occur if not cooked properly. While the zesty, creamy lemon risotto was a unique accompaniment, in the future J would consider "lightening" the dish up a bit by using a linguine instead. Nonetheless, the meal was a definitive departure from the tacos we'd been eating all week, and a fun entrée into preparing octopus at home.

- K

Aquarius Fish Co.
314 West Broadway
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
801.533.5633
M-F 11-7, Sat 10-5

Hello Cupcake

2009-04-13T22:42:00.002-06:00

Hello Cupcake, goodbye DC! On our final day in the nation's capital we took a stroll through Dupont Circle, where we happened upon this Connecticut Avenue purveyor of gourmet cupcakes made fresh throughout the day. Despite a cupcake breakfast at Baked & Wired, we couldn't resist bidding our trip adieu with one last treat.

Triple Coconut Cupcake - coconut cake, coconut cream cheese frosting and crunchy toasted coconut frosting: $3

When Hello Cupcake owner Penny Karas says coconut x 3 she means it, and I embraced the authenticity of this little number, complete with coconut flakes baked into the cake itself. Karas clearly focuses on creating high-quality baked goods from the inside out, beginning with ingredients like Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla and fresh eggs--and not a trace of trans fat. Frosting means real butter and real cream cheese. Only then does she focus on the "finishing touches" as she refers to them in the anatomy of a Hello Cupake: the sprinkles and sweets that trim her cupcakes, rather than comprise them. The result is a selection of more than 50 unique flavors, each created with the knowledge that a pretty exterior is great, but it's what's inside that counts.

- K

Hello Cupcake
1351 Connecticut Avenue, N.W.
Washington, DC 20036
202.861.2254

Founding Farmers

2009-04-12T12:11:00.006-06:00

Founding Farmers sounded great in concept: owned by a co-op of more than 42,000 farmers, the restaurant promises fresh food prepared with the products from its founding family farms, ranches and fisheries. Its space on Pennsylvania Avenue in DC is even LEED certified. As we walked there for Sunday brunch, we were confident this was going to be a memorable experience. And it was...memorable...just not in the way we were expecting.

Upon arriving at the restaurant, we were a little surprised to see one of its employees bent over the bushes outside, puking. The point when she made eye contact with us and went back to hurling really should have been our sign to keep walking. But we were just so curious about the place that we went in anyway, figuring our chances of this woman actually being our server had to be pretty low, right?

%$()# as I will call her for purposes of this post, greeted us at our table with the same bloodshot eyes that moments earlier had acknowledged us from the shrubs outside. She nonchalantly gestured behind her to describe the restaurant's pre-prohibition era style bar, complete with professional mixologists. After watching her performance outside, the last thing we wanted was a drink. However never ones to make a fuss at a restaurant, we managed to momentarily shrug it off in the interest of a highly-anticipated meal.

Devil-ish Eggs - $4

Skillet Cornbread - $5

About halfway through our appetizers, %$()# was back outside our window, within the view of the entire side of the restaurant, hurling. We watched in disbelief as she made three separate trips back outside, between refilling coffee and water, to barf in the bushes. I am not even sure she washed her hands. Was there not a private employee bathroom of some kind that she could use? How "back-to-the-land" is this place, I am wondering at this point. Suffice to say, as the server lost her cookies, we lost our appetites. In fact, we were just about to fold and ask for the check when our entrees were delivered: a burger for J, pumpkin risotto and seared scallops for me. I didn't think anything could keep me from loving every minute of eating scallops, but a chunk of upchuck on the server's cheek proved me wrong.

We got through the meal, paid the bill and on our way out, asked to speak to the manager on shift. Her response: "Yes, I can't believe %$()# is working when she is so sick...we have been trying to get her off the floor all morning." At this point it occurred to me that our server might have a serious case of the flu, rather than a nasty hangover, and the absurdity of the situation hit an entirely new low. We left Founding Farmers absolutely shell-shocked and incredibly disappointed.

Days later I still could not get over the blatant disregard this server apparently had for the restaurant, its food and customers. I was compelled to email the general manager to inform him of our experience. In his prompt response he agreed that a member of his staff puking in the bushes outside is not good publicity for the restaurant, and offered to host us back at Founding Farmers, his treat. While we won't be visiting DC anytime soon, his response was sincere enough to suggest that Founding Farmers might be worthy of a second chance.

- K

Founding Farmers
1924 Pennsylvania Ave, NW
Washington, DC 20006
202.822.TRUE

Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar

2009-04-01T19:10:00.001-06:00

Whether at home or away, come 5 o'clock Friday I am ready to unwind with a glass of wine. So during a recent trip to DC we got the weekend started by bellying up to the bar at Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar.

Mendocino's menu is quite small, with just four appetizers, three salads and seven entrees to choose from. But its artisinal cheese menu branches out a bit further, offering flights from a selection of blue, goats, sheep and cows milk cheeses. Accents like huckleberry preserve, kumquat marmalade, spiced nuts and warm olives can be added for $3 a pop.

Cheese Flight - $18 for four. From left: Great Hill Blue, Piper's Pyramid, Noble Amish Cheddar and Nancy's Camembert

Each of the four created a completely different marriage of flavors when paired with the fig paste or huckleberry preserve (not shown). There weren't any "Happy Hour" specials to be found, but given that we live in Salt Lake City, any hour spent in a proper bar is a happy one.

- K

Mendocino Grille and Wine Bar
2917 M Street
Washington, DC 20007
202.333.2912

Baked & Wired

2009-03-23T19:18:00.004-06:00

One of my favorite things to do when traveling is sample a city's cupcakes. Say what you will about the whole cupcake craze, but I believe cupcakes are trendy for a reason: their petite size offers controlled indulgence--and for many, who, like me, grew up on them--a trip down nostalgia lane.

Prior to the trip I'd researched two cupcake spots in Georgetown: Baked & Wired and Georgetown Cupcake. The latter had a seemingly unending line during their hours of operation, which might suggest that it is the queen of cupcakes. And perhaps it is, but with the constant rain we were dealing with, it just seemed like too much work. Instead we made our way to Baked & Wired, tucked away on a quiet block of Thomas Jefferson Street, just a few steps--but yet a world away--from the crowds on M Street.

Chocolate cupcake with peanut butter frosting - $3.50

Easy on the eye, but rich, even by my standards. I wanted so much to like this one, as the kid in me still loves peanut butter, but alas I had to resign myself to the fact that I liked J's selection much better...

Lemon Cupcake with Raspberry Filling and Lemon Icing - $3.50

Wow. J actually gave this one "best cupcake ever" status. And while it lacked the trimmings that tend to make me weak in the knees, such as sprinkles or coconut flakes, it really was amazing: moist lemon cake with raspberry filling and the most luscious lemon icing. We loved it so much that we went back the day we were leaving town in order to have one for breakfast.

Baked & Wired is separated into two distinct sides: one focuses on coffee and the other side is devoted to sweets: an array of beautiful cupcakes, massive peanut butter brownies, pistachio-cherry biscotti and the like. Visiting both sides is intended to get you legally "baked and wired." The particular barista we had on the coffee side was not nearly as warm as my latte, so I was initially a little confused that I could order and receive my coffee from her, but settle my bill on the cupcake side. In fact, she seemed rather put out to make my drink, much less explain how I should pay for it. Buzz kill. Having put myself through college by working as a barista, I feel justified in saying that her delivery was lacking. But with cupcakes like the lemon number, even a tart barista couldn't sour the experience.

- K

Baked & Wired
1052 Thomas Jefferson Street, N.W.
Washington, DC 20007
202.333.5506

Blue Duck Tavern

2009-03-21T08:43:00.000-06:00

Blue Duck Tavern was not on our agenda when we arrived in DC, but it ended up being conveniently located across the street from our hotel. J initially happened upon it for a little Saturday afternoon bubbly, and it quickly became our go-to spot for drinks, cheese, and, on our final night in the nation's capital, dinner.

I loved the dichotomy of Blue Duck Tavern's modern, clean-lined interior and (albeit strategically placed) farmhouse rocking chairs. Right down to the combination of contemporary art and framed quilts on the walls, it is very MOMA meets Amish Country, and a perfectly symbolic representation of the menu: pure, traditional flavors delivered with a focus on sustainability.

Chestnut Soup with Burnt Marshmallow (Path Valley, PA) - $12

Any soup that allows me to indulge my sweet tooth is a soup I have to try. Pureed Path Valley chestnuts with three burnt marshmallows floating on top: so simple yet so creative. I literally scraped every last bit from the bowl.

Baby Greens with Round Pond Vinaigrette (Path Valley, PA) - $7

J kept his eye on the food pyramid with this one. It was just the prep he needed for what was to follow...

Traditional Cassoulet (Jurgielewicz Farm, PA) - $26

After a cold day of walking in the rain, J found this to be just what the doctor ordered. He loved the smokey flavor of the sausage. While he appreciated that the beans were not out of a can, they were a little more firm than he would have preferred. That didn't keep him from getting it wrapped up in a doggy bag and enjoying the leftovers for breakfast.

Roasted Organic Chicken with Buttermilk and Herbs (Four Story Hill, PA) - $23

I rarely eat chicken, but with the buttermilk and rosemary this just sounded too good to pass up. It was well worth the selection: incredibly juicy and fresh, and paired nicely with...

Heirloom Grits with Blue Cheese (Anson Mills, SC) - $8

I could eat grits every day: primarily because it is just one more excuse to eat cheese, but also because they remind me so much of visiting the south. The consistency of these was perfectly creamy and smooth, and the blue cheese was a tangy addition.

Cheese Plate: Grayson, Bayley Hazen Blue and Constant Bliss - $5 per oz.

Blue Duck Tavern is housed in the Grand Hyatt, and offers an easy bar for the consumption of adult beverages, day or night. Two tables are actually enclosed in little glass rooms, creating a human fish bowl that makes for great people watching. Between the bar and the restaurant are two open pantry areas where employees prepare everything from espresso drinks to dessert, creating the illusion of dining at a friend's house.

- K

Blue Duck Tavern
24 & M Streets, NW
Washington, DC 20037
202.419.6755

Hook

2009-03-17T22:58:00.001-06:00

When I first saw Hook listed on Food & Wine's web site, the name admittedly conjured up images of wait staff donning pirate shirts and clapboard walls adorned with life preservers. However as I read further, I realized Hook's ode to the sea runs much deeper.

Washington, DC's Hook first opened its doors in April 2007, and features sustainable seafood and local organic produce. Located on bustling M Street in Georgetown, the restaurant's historic brick exterior hides a sleek white dining room, complete with alluring semi-sheer curtains and a sprinkling of DC's preppy elite. Despite the fact that it was a busy Friday night, our server spent a considerable amount of time explaining the restaurant's philosophy of developing relationships with fishermen who follow environmentally sustainable practices. He proceeded to walk us through every entree on the menu, detailing the geographic origins of the fish.

Crudo: Shellfish Combination for 2 - $42

Lobster, prawns, Taylor Bay Scallops, Calamari, Oysters and Mussels. Fish my favorite way: raw and pure, and a jet-lag free visit to Japan, Canada, New York and Maine.

Grilled Calamari (Rhode Island) - Potato Salad, Basil Walnut Pesto - $12

Tender and smoky, this dish was a standout for J. The calamari was grilled to perfection, and the combination of pesto and squid was reminiscent of fare we once enjoyed in Cinque Terre.

Arctic Char (Iceland) - Sweet Potatoes, Brussels Sprouts, Celeriac Puree - $27

Thanksgiving dinner meets Omega-3s. I loved the combination of flavors and textures, especially the crispy fish skin dressed with the delicate puree.

MoonFish (Hawaii) - Fennel, De Puy Lentils, Tomato Coulis - $27

J found this fish to be similar in mouth feel and firmness to tuna, but with a silkiness that shimmied on the tongue.

With more wine bottles falling in the triple-digit range than the "under $40" zone, Hook's wine list did have us walking the plank. That said, given that it is Georgetown--where tiny brick row homes can run a cool $1 million--I suppose the $630 Blanc de Blanc is on the menu for a reason.

- K

Hook
3421 M Street NW
Washington, DC
202.625.4488

Zuni Cafe

2009-02-12T19:05:00.003-07:00

Zuni Cafe is located at the corner of Market Street and Rose Alley in San Francisco, and at the top of my list when visiting the Bay Area.

This Parisian-style cafe has been around since 1979, and offers a menu of French and Italian recipes that changes daily. Sustainability is a priority at the James Beard Award winning restaurant, but perhaps my favorite thing about Zuni is the way its European-inspired environment makes me feel as though its perfectly acceptable to consume several glasses of bubbly before noon.

Oysters: Drake's Bay, Pearl Point and Skookum - $2.50 each

Representing California, Oregon and Washington respectively. Appropriate since our party traces roots back to all three.

Roasted Chicken for two with Tuscan-Style Bread Salad - $48

Moist, juicy, and so fresh, this dish has been on the menu since Zuni's inception 30 years ago! It takes an hour to prepare, which made plenty of time for prosecco.

Devil's Gulch Rabbit Salad with Frisée, Treviso Chicory & Poached Egg - $15.50

Our friend Ryan found this to be a perfect size portion given the eggs benedict he'd already devoured at Cafe de la Press. But somehow he managed to also "help" me with my polenta...

Bowl of Polenta with Marscapone - $6

I love polenta, but with my poor kitchen skills, I don't get many opportunities to eat it. In fact, an attempt to once make it for an ex-boyfriend crashed and burned so badly that I wasn't very surprised when he sent me packing soon after. Fortunately the folks at Zuni know what they are doing, serving their polenta up creamy and smooth, with your choice of marscapone or fresh parmesan on top.

Pizza with Asiago, Rosemary, Portobello Mushrooms and Pine Nuts - $12.50

Good pizza, but nothing special. I found myself missing the cassoulet I'd enjoyed during our previous visit. That said, when split between two people it could make for a very budget-friendly visit to this San Francisco institution.

From our table on the restaurant's loft level I had a birds-eye view of a couple sipping mimosas at a sunny outdoor table. Having just escaped snow in Salt Lake City mere hours earlier, I found the moment quintessential California, and raised my glass in their direction.

- K

While Zuni does seat in their bar on a first-come, first-served basis, reservations are highly recommend, especially when visiting on the weekend.

Zuni Cafe
1658 Market Street
San Francisco, CA 94102

Steelhead Diner

2008-12-29T20:35:00.003-07:00

I've wanted to check out Seattle's Steelhead Diner ever since I saw a picture of their slice of caviar pie featured in one of those in-flight magazines. Maybe it was the fact that I was cruising along at 30,000 feet with nothing but salted peanuts that had me instantly infatuated with the dish. Or perhaps it is because the rainbow of roe atop a slab of sour cream and cream cheese, served on a bed of chopped egg, onions and capers really is a stunner to look at. Whatever the case may be, Steelhead Diner's caviar pie had been the subject of many a food fantasy. On our recent Christmas trip to Seattle, even snow and subsequently closed roads weren't going to keep us apart.

Caviar Pie - $14.95

Interestingly, the price of this dish has crept up pretty dramatically since the restaurant's inception in early 2007. Originally offered at $10.95, and then at $12.95 as recently as this summer, the subject of my lust cost a whopping $14.95 on our recent visit. I'd thought about it for so long that I knew I could not leave without trying it. Yes, it is gorgeous to look at, and yes, I ate the whole thing: but at a more than 40% increase in price, this baby has gone up as much as my pension has gone down. Not exactly budget-friendly.

Crispy Pork Shank Carnitas - $9.95

J loved how the meat so gingerly fell off the bone. As the rest of you carnitas fans know, typically it comes with the meat already braised and shredded, so it was fun and unique that the meat came on the bone and had to be shredded. Do it Yourself carnitas, if you will.

Flash Fried Pacific Oyster Loaf - $14.95

A little bit of NOLA in the Pacific Northwest: a blending of my two "homes" and the ultimate comfort food.

Grilled Marinated Skirt Steak Sandwich - $14.95

The meat was juicy and flavorful, and the crumbled Oregonzola was a nice touch.

The wine menu keeps it local with "nothing south of Oregon, nothing east of Idaho" and on it we found a lovely Willamette Valley pinot noir, Alloro, that we'd never had before. We liked it -- and Steelhead's bulbous wine glasses -- so much that we popped back in the next day to enjoy a bottle at the bar.

- K

Steelhead Diner
95 Pine Street
Pike Place Market
Seattle, WA 98101

The Counter

2008-12-15T19:49:00.003-07:00

Editor's Note - This restaurant is now closed.

Normally we are not "supersized" fans of restaurant chains, but for gourmet burger joint The Counter, which recently opened a location in Salt Lake City, we're willing to make an exception.

At The Counter 1/3, 2/3 or 1 pound patties of beef, turkey or veggie (and grilled chicken) -- priced between $8.50 and $13.25 -- serve as the foundation for more than 312,120 different custom burger combinations. An array of basic toppings are included in the price of the protein, while burger aficionados can add extra "premium" toppings such as fried egg, sun-dried tomatoes and homemade guacamole for $1 each.

1/3 lb. Beef Burger with Danish Blue Cheese and Roasted Garlic Aioli - $8.50

1/3 lb. Turkey Burger with Blue Cheese, Fried Egg, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes - $10.50

Fries - Sweet Potato and Original - $4.95

This yacht of fries was a bit much for the two of us, so on our next visit we opted for the "single" versions at a buck each. Much more manageable.

Pumpkin Shake - $4.95

I was teetering on the edge of a food coma already, but I simply had to try the shake of the month: Pumpkin for November. So festive....and filling! I had vowed not to indulge in their shakes again until warmer weather would allow me to at least ride my bike there...and then I saw December's Shake of the Month: Eggnog. So much for resolutions.

The Counter's first location opened in Santa Monica in 2003, and was the brainchild of entrepreneur -- and burger fan -- Jeffrey Weinstein, who originally envisioned it as a one-off family-friendly burger joint. Soon the flagship spot, a mere 10 blocks from his home, was packed with people from all over Los Angeles, and Weinstein decided to spread his wings. Five years and 17 locations later, Weinstein's vision has crossed state lines and international waters to offer people the chance to truly have a burger their way.

- K

The Counter
188 South Rio Grande Street
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
801.297.1000

Altengartz Bratwurst Truck

2008-11-28T10:04:00.000-07:00

We only lived in Portland for one year, but the memories are among our most vivid -- especially when it comes to Portland eats. From cheap to cher, we packed some incredible food into a short period of time. One of our favorite spots is fortunately also one of the more budget-friendly: Altengartz Mobile Restaurant. Typically parked at the corner of SW 10th and Alder, the juiciest brats we've ever had are sold out of this old, white "roach coach." At night, proprietor Jameson Altengartz would sometimes move the truck to the corner of SW Second Avenue and Ash Street, where bar-hoppers could indulge their hunger pains between the hours of midnight and 3 a.m. (I do confess to a few late night visits to this location, in my pajamas, no less.)

On a recent trip to catch up with friends -- and try some of the new restaurants that have popped up since we left PDX -- we made sure to visit this old favorite. When J ordered his brat with habanero salsa -- a speakeasy item that one had to know of or have Jameson offer, since it did not appear on the actual menu -- Jameson smiled and said, "Wow, that was like, five years ago." It was a well-deserved reminder that while Portland may still feel relevant to us, a lot has changed since our departure.

Altengratz Brats - $4.50 each

A little bit of cheese for me, and a lot of sauerkraut and mustard for J. Habanero salsa or not, we still enjoyed every bite.

- K

Altengartz Mobile Restaurant
Corner of SW 10th & Alder
Portland, OR 97205
503-975-2549

Bouchon Bakery

2008-11-13T21:18:00.000-07:00

Pistachio macaron (left) and espresso (right)

A meal at Thomas Keller's French Laundry may be on my life list, but it is certainly not in the budget. So when we decided to head to Napa Valley for a little R&R (red, and more red...wine, that is) I at least had to pay a visit to one of Keller's more accessible Yountville establishments: Bouchon Bakery.

Inspired by the pâtisseries and boulangeries of Paris, Bouchon Bakery succeeds at recreating the image of a bustling Parisian bakery, right down to the the cozy quarters and indifferent service. Maybe it was the fact that it was a sleepy Sunday, the last day of our trip, that made our visit to Bouchon Bakery feel so relaxing. But as we sat on their quaint patio -- beneath strands of clear light bulbs that surely sparkle in the night -- I couldn't help but envy the locals, who can stroll in to Bouchon Bakery seven days a week, from 7A to 7P.

Given Keller's law of diminishing returns -- that food should be enjoyed in small portions because the second and third bites will never be as pleasurable as the first -- we were surprised to see the large, sand dollar size macarons. Even I had to break them up into a couple sittings. The pistachio was divine: flavorful but not overpowering, while the espresso was sweet, but a bit bland.

Chocolate-Almond Croissant (left) and Plain Croissant (right)

Given the combination of flavors, I thought the chocolate-almond croissant, with two sticks of chocolate and a thin sliver of almond paste, had just the right level of sweetness. J found the plain croissant to be a little too light and fluffy for his taste.

A couple of baguettes we purchased (not shown) had a perfectly crusty, caramel exterior and moist interior. They worked nicely later that afternoon with a triple cream and handful of slices of sopressata.

- K

Bouchon Bakery Yountville
6528 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
707.944.2253

FARM at the Carneros Inn

2008-11-11T21:55:00.004-07:00

Another November, another candle on J's birthday cake. When a last-minute web fare to California came out we decided to celebrate with a little trip to Napa--and admittedly, a lot of food and wine.

FARM at the Carneros Inn immediately caught our interest with its promise of local, organic and sustainably raised ingredients, sourced primarily within a 150-mile radius of Carneros. When we arrived at the high end Napa valley Carneros Inn--and equally sophisticated FARM--I was a little worried that the restaurant might be too focused on looking good. But as we soon discovered, FARM is not just a pretty face.

Sashimi Grade Ahi Tuna Carpaccio - $16
Roasted baby golden beets, basil oil and crispy potatoes

The varying textures were fun and played together nicely. I loved the nuttiness of the roasted baby golden beets.

Wild Mushroom Risotto - $22
White truffle oil, Parmesan cheese, mushroom broth

One of the lightest risottos I have had the pleasure of meeting. The portion wasn't overwhelming and the delicate, foamy broth helped balance the hearty mushrooms.

Pan Roasted Niman Ranch Pork Chop - $28
Red Onion Soubise, Cavelo Nero, Bacon and Bonick Figs

For a restaurant that so heavily references its local ingredients, we were a little surprised to see this chop--though humanely and sustainably raised--originated in the Midwest. Nonetheless J found it to be moist and succulent.

My one other beef with FARM is the corkage fee, which at $25, was more than we shelled out for my risotto! In all fairness the price points on their wine list itself are actually quite reasonable, but with one more bottle of Regusci than there was space in our suitcase, we had no other choice but to brown bag it. Next time we'll buy a bottle off the menu.

- K

Farm at the Carneros Inn
4048 Sonoma Highway
Napa, CA 94559
707.299.4882

Tulie Bakery

2008-10-19T19:22:00.007-06:00

I observed several days of mourning when I learned Salt Lake City chocolatier Xocolate had decided to close its doors. Not only had their chocolates become a staple in my food pyramid, I'd also been impressed with the tasteful way Xocolate's owners had given an old building a contemporary makeover. Since Xocolate said "no mas" last April I have been anxious to see who would move into the lovely space, and what they would do with it.

And so I was thrilled when I began seeing signs around town announcing that Tulie Bakery would be going into the north of ninth and ninth spot. Ever a sweet-tooth, I have long felt that Salt Lake City just does not have enough quality bakeries. With their advertisement of fresh, quality pastries--and being open on Sundays no less--Tulie Bakery sounded promising from their fliers alone.

The cute new bakery must have opened sometime within the past week, and so today I made a beeline for the sweet spot, picking up a couple croissants and a little coconut cream tart. I was a little surprised when the trio ran me $13, but as we soon discovered, Tulie Bakery is worth every penny.

Croissant - $3.25

At $3.25 each the croissants are pricey, but they are also nearly double the size of others around town. Nestled within a crusty, toasty exterior are layers of soft, buttery pastry. These delectable croissants reminded us of those found in a little bakery in the Latin Quarter of Paris.

Coconut Cream Tart - $6.25

Fortunately for me, J is not big on sweets, so I had this entire treat to myself. It tasted fresh and subtle: not too rich and not too sweet.

In addition to these fabulous finds, Tulie Bakery offers elegant cakes, cupcakes, morning pastries and coffee. The friendly woman at the counter explained that two sisters have opened the joint, which just makes me all the more excited to plunk down future earnings there.

- K

Tulie Bakery
863 East 700 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84102
801.883.9741

View Google Maps

Hong Kong Tea House & Restaurant

2008-10-18T21:36:00.001-06:00

Last week I watched a movie in which characters were chowing on Dim Sum, and I had been craving the small Chinese dishes ever since. Today we indulged my craving with a trip to Hong Kong Tea House & Restaurant, voted "Best Chinese" by Salt Lake City Weekly's "Best of 2008" Awards.

Located across the street from the now defunct Orbit cafe, Hong Kong Tea House & Restaurant is among old brick buildings that simply ooze potential but have yet to receive the kind of love they deserve. Its own exterior a faded gray, Hong Kong Tea House & Restaurant is easy to miss: but if you haven't been there then the only thing you are missing is a delicious, cheap meal.

The one problem with going out for Dim Sum when we were already famished is that we selected far too many dishes on the form, and then proceeded to say yes to every dish they brought our way while we awaited our initial order. Suffice to say we were close to food comas by the time we paid the bill. Highlights of the meal included:

BBQ Pork - $4.25

J found this version of the other white meat to be tender and succulent.

Beef Wienoki Mushroom Roll - $4.25 for 4

These little babies had a nice peppery kick to them.

Jumbo Shrimp Dumpling - $3.50 for 4

Soft, warm and seafood...my idea of comfort food.

Beef Rice Noodle Roll - $3.50 for 3

This one sounded great in theory, but getting it from the serving dish to our own plates (and then to our mouths) was another matter entirely. Most of mine ended up on the table...Fortunately I believe in the five second rule.

Crab Meat Dumpling - $3.50 for 4

Rich and meaty in texture.

Deep Fried Taro Dumplings - $2.95 for 3

These were incredibly delicate and fluffy little pillows.

Hong Kong Tea House & Restaurant scores extra points with me by being open on Sundays. Combine that with endless cups of jasmine tea for a buck, and I think it is fair to say that this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

- K

Hong Kong Tea House & Restaurant
565 West 200 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
801.531.7010

View Google Maps

Mini's Cupcakes

2008-09-18T18:55:00.003-06:00

After earning good marks on a cholesterol test this week I decided to celebrate--and nothing says celebrate to me like frosting and sprinkles. These little lovelies from Mini's Cupcakes pack plenty of party but little guilt.

I first fell in love with Mini's Cupcakes last summer when they had a booth at the Salt Lake Farmers Market. Now housed in a downtown Salt Lake City storefront--complete with candy-striped walls and sassy "Change your cup size" T-Shirts--Mini's has come a long way from their days of selling cupcakes out of coolers.

Back Row (Left to right): S'more Please(Marshmallow meringue on a chocolate cake) Snowball (coconut) and Breakfast at Tiffany's (blue cream cheese frosting on a vanilla cake). Front Row (Left to right) another S'more Please (so the other one wouldn't feel lonely) Blueberry Hill (Cream cheese frosting on a blueberry cake) and my personal favorite, Lemon Pie (lemon meringue on a lemon cake).

At $2 each half a dozen cupcakes will run you $12.36, but with fine ingredients like Madagascar Vanilla and fresh roasted coffee, you get what you pay for.

- K

Mini's Cupcakes
14 East (Between Main and State) 800 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
801.363.0608

View Google Maps

Tagliatelle Bolognese

2008-09-08T21:32:00.001-06:00

White shoes and seersucker are off limits and the sun is setting far too early in the evening: Fall is close upon us, whether we are ready for it or not.

One positive result of the shift in season is that we begin revisiting heartier dishes we bid adieu during the summer. This Tagliatelle Bolognese, courtesy of The Food Network's Tyler Florence, is a favorite that when prepped on the weekend, makes for a very easy week of leftovers.

2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms, wiped of grit
1/4 pound pancetta or slab bacon, finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
5 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs rosemary
1 1/2 pound ground pork
1 1/2 pound ground beef
2 cups milk
1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
2 cups dry red wine
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound dry tagiatelle pasta
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
1 handful fresh basil leaves
Fresh ricotta cheese

Reconstitute the mushrooms in boiling water for 20 minutes until tender, drain and coarsely chop.

Puree the mushrooms, pancetta, onion, celery stalks, carrots, garlic, together in a blender.

In a heavy-bottomed pot add olive oil, bay leaves, herbs and cook gently until fragrant, then add vegetable puree and continue to cook for a further 5 to 10 minutes.

Raise the heat a bit and add the ground pork and beef; brown until the meat is no longer pink, breaking up the clumps with a wooden spoon. Add the milk and simmer until the liquid is evaporated, about 10 minutes. Carefully pour in the tomatoes, and wine and season with salt and pepper. Bring the sauce to a boil, then lower the heat and cover. Slowly simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, stirring now and then, until the sauce is very thick. Taste again for salt and pepper.

When you are ready to serve, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, add the pasta and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until al dente. Drain the pasta well and toss with the Bolognese sauce.

Serve with a good scoop of fresh ricotta cheese and garnish with some shredded basil, grated Parmigiano and a drizzle of olive oil. (We didn't have any ricotta this time so we substituted fresh mozzarella.)

This dish doesn't make it any easier to get out of bed on these cooler mornings, but it does inspire thoughts of leaves crunching underfoot and plenty of red wine.

- K

White Bean Salad with Sausage and Fennel

2008-08-25T22:47:00.002-06:00

Far too often we open the weekend by blowing the food budget at the wine store, and end up seeking creative ways to still eat well the rest of the week. This bean salad is just the ticket. Last summer we were doing it as a side dish, until our much healthier--and less gluttonous --friend Kara pointed out that it really is a meal in and of itself. Our arteries thank her.

One lemon
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (and/or lime)
1/2 Fennel Bulb
One Teaspoon Dijon Mustard
Two 14oz. Cans Butter Beans
1/2 Pint Tomatoes (something small, like cherry or grape)
1/2 cup Olive Oil
Two Sausages (approx. 1/2 pound total)
One tablespoon minced shallot (approx. one small shallot)
One small clove of Garlic (minced)
1/4 Cup Dill

(Yields two full servings or four side dishes)

Cook the two sausages on a grill or in a sauté pan for about five minutes per side until done. (This is about the point when J decides he needs a beer to keep him company during the prep, but consider that optional.)

For the vinaigrette place the lemon juice in a small mixing bowl. Whisk in the Dijon mustard until well combined. Pour in the olive oil and whisk vigorously for about a minute. Add garlic and shallot. Salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. (This can also be made up to a week ahead and refrigerated.)

Heat butter beans in a pan over medium heat until warm. (For extra flavor you can add rosemary, bay leaves or garlic as they heat. J likes to add truffle oil.)

Core the half fennel bulb and slice paper thin or use a mandolin. Add to a mixing bowl along with the dill. Slice tomatoes in half and add to the bowl. Add half the vinaigrette and gently combine ingredients.

Remove beans from heat and strain the liquid. Add beans and sliced sausage to the mixing bowl along with the remainder of the vinaigrette.

If you are local to the Salt Lake City area you can make this dish extra tasty by picking up Strianese Italian Butter Beans and Creminelli sausage from Tony Caputo's Market & Deli. At about $1.39 a can the beans are comparable in price to what you'd pay for your basic white beans at the grocery store, but much more flavorful. As for the sausage, the Creminelli family has been producing artisan meats in Italy as far back as the 1600's, but in June celebrated one year of making their fine meats available in America. Under the supervision of the oldest son, Christiano, the family legacy continues right here in our own backyard. Until the dollar improves it is about as close to Italy as we are going to get.

Bon Appetito!

- K

Maison Lacour

2008-08-17T18:43:00.002-06:00

There is something about the South that feels like home to me. Perhaps it is the fact that work has led me to spend so much time there over the years. Or maybe it is because Louisiana's fried oysters always take me back to the ones made by my father in the Pacific Northwest. Whatever the reason may be, my friend in Baton Rouge has graciously given me unofficial "Louisiana native" credentials. What that meant for me this week was the opportunity to be a fly on the wall at a Mardi Gras Krewe meeting, check out the New Orleans building behind the mysterious murder of Dr. Mary Sherman (as chronicled in Dr. Mary's Monkey) and dine at one of Baton Rouge's finest, Maison Lacour.

Opened in 1986 by John and Jacqueline Gréaud, the story of Maison Lacour is a romantic one. In 1991 a gentleman by the name of Michael Jetty went to the back door of Maison Lacour and asked if he could apprentice under Cordon Bleu-trained Jacqueline Gréaud. The chance experience would lead to more than a future chef position at the restaurant: while developing immense discipline and respect for classic French cooking, Jetty also fell in love with the restaurant's hostess, John and Jacqueline's daughter Eva. Now married, Michael and Eva keep the family's heritage alive at the cozy Baton Rouge restaurant.

Bisque a l'Orange - $7.50

This creamy crawfish bisque is lightly scented with orange. I love a good bisque but so often they are rich enough to equate an entire meal. This version was just the right dose of indulgence sans the weight in one's stomach aftermath. The orange was a perfect touch.

Crâbe à la Royale - $26.95

I tend to shy away from cream-based dishes due to the richness-factor, but since the Crâbe à la Royale is a Maison Lacour specialty, I was compelled to venture outside of my comfort zone. The journey paid off with this baked dish of jumbo lump crab, white wine, shallots and cream. Somehow, the sauce was far from heavy, as was the case with the cream sauce on the shrimp ravioli my friend ordered. (Clearly I am no Annie Leibovitz, as my terrible photo confirms, but I had to show off this fabulous dish nonetheless.)

Tarte Tatin - $7, Crêpes Suzette - $7.50 and Lemon Soufflé - $8.95

No, I didn't eat all three by myself...but I would have. My victim was the soufflé which was refreshing, and only added to the "light" theme of the meal. In fact, when I was done with this thing, there wasn't a speck of powdered sugar to be found.

At the end of our meal Michael came out to say hello, and to fill my friends in on his recent month in Tahiti, where French expats cooked for him for a change, and it took only "48 hours" for him and the lovely Eva to let Maison Lacour slip from their mind in the spirit of vacation. His humility was charming, and his passion evident, especially as he talked about his effort to always end an evening with a clean apron, an ode to his teacher, Gréaud.

For me, this meal was significant on a much deeper level than just good food with good friends. It also happened to be my last business trip to the South--or anywhere else for that matter--for a while as I take a huge career leap and say goodbye to an incredible cause that has been an integral part of my being for the good part of eight years. Since making this decision I have been hoping for a "sign" from the universe to support my decision. When my friend appeared at the restaurant with a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of my absolute favs, I was quickly reminded that the dear friendships I have made from this experience do not have to be turned back in to HR with the key to the building and Avis direct bill credit card. These are friendships I will have for the rest of my days, wherever my career path takes me. To call it a sign might be a bit of a stretch, but it most certainly was a gift, and it appropriately set my sights on the future.

Thank you for everything, KP and Bill...XOXO. Here's to new beginnings.

- K

Maison Lacour
11025 N Harrell's Ferry Road
Baton Rouge, LA 70816
225.275.3755

Mojito Shrimp & Arugula With Tomatoes, Crab & Avocado

2008-08-03T17:09:00.004-06:00

With 100 degree temps in SLC and a moratorium on non-business travel thanks to skyrocketing fuel prices, The Gourmand Syndrome has been needing some serious reprieve from the heat. Enter this delicious shrimp dish, courtesy of the July 2007 issue of Sunset magazine, and J's own crab and veggie creation. The combo is so refreshing that if I close my eyes while eating it I can feel the sand of Miami Beach between my toes.

For us, this dish starts with a trip to Aquarius Fish Co., our local purveyors of fresh, quality fish. For about $25 we left with a pound of prawns and a container of Dungeness crab meat big enough to last us two days.

Clearly we aren't the only fans of Sunset's Mojito Shrimp concoction, as the recipe, including instructions for the mojito marinade, has been posted online.

As for J's Arugula with tomatoes, crab, and avocado:

3-4 Cups Unpacked Arugula
1 Pint Grape Tomatoes
1/2 Avocado
1/2 Pint Shelled Dungeness Crab Meat
2 Sprigs of Mint Leaves (Leaves Only)
Salt and Pepper to Taste
2 Teaspoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Makes two servings.

Finely slice the arugula and mint, and add to a bowl. Add one teaspoon olive oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, and mix well with your hands. Set aside.

Quarter the grape tomatoes and put them in a second bowl. Add one teaspoon of olive oil and lightly mix. Thinly slice the avocado.

Place a large biscuit cutter on a plate as a mold, stuff one half of the chopped arugula in the bottom, spread evenly. Add half the crab as the next layer, spread evenly. Next, add half the avocado and finally, one half of the quartered tomatoes. Gently press the layered ingredients and carefully remove the mold. Repeat with remaining ingredients for the second serving.

Pairs nicely with lawn chairs and some bubbly. Sunscreen optional.

- K

View Google Map for Aquarius Fish Company

Piperade

2008-03-21T13:15:00.002-06:00

When Kara and Ryan, our two wonderful friends from Portland, invited us to spend a weekend eating and drinking in San Francisco, we knew it was just what we needed to make it through the rest of a very cold winter.

Time spent with Kara and Ryan is far too precious to fuss with taking pictures of our food, but we did have some incredible eats with them: cellophane noodles with fresh dungeness crab meat at The Slanted Door, rose macaroons from Miette Patisserie, roasted pumpkin gnocchi at Fish & Farm, chilled shellfish at Bar Crudo, red wine braised octopus at Quince, and a lazy, sparkling Rosé induced brunch at Zuni Cafe.

In fact, it was at Zuni Cafe where, in between raw oysters and delicately poached eggs, Kara and Ryan introduced us to their pal Otto, a wine-distributor who graciously invited us back to his loft, where many bottles of Chateauneuf du pape were consumed on his rooftop patio. As we basked in the sun hitting our face and enjoyed the view of Jack London Square, Otto told us that before departing the city we must make our way to Piperade, a Basque restaurant near the financial district. And so on our last day, with Kara and Ryan tucked in a cab on their way to the airport, we strolled over to Piperade, camera in hand, for what would turn out to be one incredible lunch.

House cured bacalao with oyster tartare and lemon crème fraîche - $12

This is up there on the list of dishes that make me want to cry with joy. I wanted to order another, but alas, there were a few other selections we needed to try...

Marinated mussels with croutons, shallots and grenache vinaigrette - $10

Calamari “a la plancha” with fennel, olive, caper and coriander salpicon - $13

Quite possibly the best calamari we've ever had.

Warm sheep's milk ham and cheese terrine - $12

Rich and hearty, this one put us into a food coma.

With a commitment to using the freshest ingredients, Piperade's menu changes with the seasons. The small plates make it easy to try a variety of dishes without breaking the bank, and with more than 200 wines to choose from, it would simply be rude not to have a glass with lunch. (Or at least that's how we chose to justify it.)

- Katie

Piperade
1015 Battery Street
San Francisco, CA 94111
415.391.2555

Lupe

2008-01-22T22:16:00.000-07:00

When we arrive in a new town I seek out restaurants in the same manner in which I peruse covers at a bookstore: completely falling hook, line and sinker for a pretty exterior. So when we took a day trip from San Pancho to Sayulita, we made a quick sweep of the town, zeroing in on Lupe. With its minimal, art-filled space, Lupe is the kind of restaurant that I fall in love with at first sight.

Fortunately the menu at Lupe backs the restaurant's beautiful facade. Heirloom recipes that have been handed down for generations and carefully collected by owner Upi Viteri, are handcrafted from scratch daily. Only the freshest seasonal ingredients are used to create this lovely menu of authentic regional Mexican cuisine.

Amuse Bouche: Ricotta and parsley taquitos

Maize Boats - 65 pesos

Handmade maize sopecitos with shredded chicken, lettuce, tomato, avocado and a cilantro herb sauce. Like chicken tostadas, only dreamier.

Tortilla Soup - 55 pesos

Hands down one of the best soups I've ever had the pleasure of devouring. I literally licked the bowl clean.

Mole de Lupe - 150 pesos

Chicken breast in a black Oaxaca mole sauce, served with almond rice and hand made tortillas. Now John was the one to lick his plate clean.

Shrimp and coconut rice - 150 pesos

Light and refreshing, the shrimp left just enough room for a fresh churro on our way home.

Since it was our last night in Mexico when we finally made it to Lupe, the meal had that rich, end-of-trip romanticism about it. Over incredible food we reflected on everything from how much snow we'd have to shovel in our driveway to where our next travel adventure will be. By the end of the night one thing was certain: another trip to Sayulita would be a must, if only to dine again at Lupe.

- Katie

Lupe
Jose Mariscal 12
Sayulita, Mexico
contact@lupesayulita.com

Restaurante Las Palmas

2008-01-15T19:50:00.001-07:00

We arrived in San Pancho late in the evening and famished, with nothing on our agenda other than food and beer. We quickly found both at Restaurante Las Palmas, located right on the small town's sandy beach. As we dug our feet into the sand we chowed on everything from enchiladas to fish prepared in banana leaves, and huge plates of shrimp and fish ceviche. Many beers were consumed as we took turns visiting the surf, and at the end of the meal we were shocked to find that our bill for a group of 12 amounted to a mere $15 USD per person.

The following morning we were back at Restaurante Las Palmas, this time in search of their plastic lounge chairs (and admittedly, more beer). As long as you keep the drink orders coming, Restaurante Las Palmas will let you take up residence on their beach chairs, and we were more than happy to oblige. But eventually beer leads to hunger pains, and thus we were able to sample a few more incredible selections from the menu:

Octopus prepared with garlic

I'd thought plates of food like this only existed in my dreams. The octopus was the perfect texture: not too rubbery, not too soft. Now as for how it left my breath, that's another matter entirely...

Steak Fajitas

John devoured these tasty fajitas in between margaritas.

House Specialty: Guacamole

I am not a guacamole fan myself, but the aficionados in our group tell me this version, with cucumbers, takes the cake. The cucumbers gave it a fresh, clean taste, complementing the texture perfectly.

The view from Restaurante Las Palmas

Directions: Head straight to the beach in San Pancho from the "city center" entrance. Las Palmas will be on your right hand side. Have some of the ceviche for me!

- Katie

Mar Plata

2008-01-07T19:35:00.000-07:00

While San Pancho has plenty of amazing local food and seafood, one thing the tiny fishing village is short on is sparkling wine. Given my affinity toward the bubbly, I was ecstatic to arrive at Mar Plata for Christmas dinner to find a wine menu complete with sparkling wine, prosecco and even a bottle of champagne or two.

Bubbles aside, Mar Plata is stunning. Perched at the top of a winding hill at the north end of town near the Costa Azul resort, the restaurant looks like an abandoned building by day. At night the walls are rolled open, allowing the ocean breeze to seep in. Rusted metal lanterns hang from the dark sky ceiling, and we were seated at a long aqua table that looked like it had spent years in the sun. A soundtrack of everything from St. Germaine to The Cure danced with the night air.

Seared tuna salad with arugula - 110 pesos (Approx. $11)

The greens were a little too soaked in olive oil, but the dish was worth it for the ruby chunks of tuna alone.

Smoked marlin salad with soft shell crab and caper dressing - 135 pesos (Approx $13.50)

John's never met a caper he didn't like, and this dressing was no exception. After a long day of margaritas on the beach he also appreciated the reduced effort required to enjoy crab soft shell style, sans the shucking.

Seared tuna with tomato emulsion - 165 pesos (Approx $16.50)

I ask you, have you ever seen a piece of tuna like that for $16.50? I certainly had not. The emulsion was more mild than I expected, but again, take a look at that hunk of tuna...

Outside skirt - 310 pesos ($31.10)

Definitely one of the more expensive selections on this reasonably-priced menu, but John is worth every penny. The steak had a refreshingly "beefy" flavor, which we attribute to it being grass fed beef. And after a week chock full of seafood, John found that a steak the size of Texas was a nice change.

Chocolate Cake with vanilla ice cream - 70 pesos ($7)

For the sake of variety, I suppose it is a good thing we went to Mar Plata at the tail end of our trip. Otherwise, I have a feeling I would have been tempted to go back every night in order to indulge my need for bubbly.

- Katie

Mar Plata
Calle de Palmas 30, Col. Costa Azul
San Francisco, Mexico
311/258-4424
Closed Mondays, and also closed Aug-Sept

La Bottegga dei Sapori

2008-01-05T20:24:00.000-07:00

It has been so long since we've blogged that I momentarily forgot our Blogspot username and password. One visitor to The Gourmand Syndrome even asked if we were on a food diet. However "diet" is a word that is certainly not in our vocabulary; in reality, an over-committed schedule over the past two months has been our excuse. What better way to rejuvenate, and get back into the blogging spirit, than spending eight days in San Pancho, Mexico.

San Pancho, also referred to as San Francisco, is a tiny coastal fishing village in Nayarit, about 30-40 minutes north of Puerto Vallarta (PV). The town is a perfect hideout for anyone needing a little R&R and a lot of time focused on eating.

Upon our arrival in San Pancho we quickly stumbled upon many culinary gems, including La Bottegga dei Sapori, a cute Italian bakery owned by a sweet, hippie couple from Milan. Each day (with the exception of Sunday) La Bottegga dei Sapori offers up incredible treats, such as fruit tarts, profiteroles that will make you cry with joy, and steaming hot slices of pizza for 20-22 pesos each. I personally chose to start each morning with a piece of their pizza con olives for breakfast.

Pizza con olives - 22 pesos (approximately $2.20)

The owners of La Bottegga dei Saproi are so gracious that when we inquired about a cake for a friend's birthday, they quickly created a jumbo version of their profiteroles for our group of 12. On our last day in town I picked up a piece of the pizza con olives for the road, and nestled it on my lap as we made the car trip to the airport in PV. I forced myself to keep that slice of pizza wrapped in foil through the lush, curving jungle roads, until the traffic began to slow, and the signs for "Senor Frogs" became abundant. The slice was cold, but delicious nonetheless.

Stay tuned for more excerpts from San Pancho, including fresh tortillas, taco carts, and even some fine dining. (No diets allowed.)

- Katie

La Bottegga dei Sapori
Calle America Latina #7
San Pancho, Nayarit
Mexico
01 (311) 258.4392
Open Monday through Saturday
E-mail: kia.anto@libero.it

The Tin Angel Cafe

2007-10-30T21:14:00.000-06:00

Our first trip to The Tin Angel Cafe was thwarted by a sign on the door proclaiming their closure due to the co-owner's wedding. Always fans of love, we revised our lunch plan to include a stop at another less than stellar new spot in town, which shall remain nameless.

So, by the time we made it back to The Tin Angel Cafe this past weekend, we were more than eager to try the cozy new cafe offering fresh, seasonal cuisine in an unpretentious setting.

Breasola Carpaccio - $8

Egg Sanwich with Manchego and Roma Tomatoes - $7
Cup of Spinach Fontina Soup

Breasola Sandwich - $9

The menu has some easy selections, such as the arugula and sliced beets salad and a three cheese baguette. I was especially fond of the dainty teacups and saucers, which reminded me of coffee hour at my late grandmother's house--sans the dish of Brach's candy.

- K

The Tin Angel
365 West 400 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
801.328.4155

Pumpkin Ravioli with Shallot and Sage Butter Sauce

2007-10-27T23:10:00.000-06:00

Halloween is just around the corner and that means everywhere you look pumpkins abound. If you are anything like me, you cannot carve a pumpkin to save your life. I am certainly not the crafty type. Unless you consider placing an empty bowl outside your door with a note that reads, " please take only one piece of candy" while you escape to a restaurant on Halloween, crafty.

Instead, we here at The Gourmand Syndrome, choose to use those beautiful plump autumn vegetables as food. If you are looking for a simple way to use your pumpkin, other than a candle holder, or a pie, then you will love this recipe.

Ingredients (Serves 2):

Fresh Pasta Recipe-
(I use Thomas Keller's recipe, but Epicurious is a great resource if you don't have T.K.'s cookbook)

Pumpkin Filling-
1 small pie pumpkin (about 1 lb)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1 tsp chopped fresh oregano
1 small pinch cinnamon
1 small pinch freshly grated nutmeg
2 Tbsp heavy whipping cream
2 Tbsp butter
salt and pepper

Shallot and Butter Sauce-
1 finely chopped shallot
About 10 sage leaves chopped
8 Tbsp butter
salt and pepper to taste
3 Tbsp toasted pinenuts

Process:

Pasta-
Make Fresh pasta per recipe. Roll into thin sheets and set aside.

Pumpkin Filling-
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut pumpkin in half and remove seeds. Chop pumpkin into 1-inch squares. Mix pumpkin, olive oil, thyme, and oregano in mixing bowl until well coated. Place on cooking sheet and cook until fork tender, turning once (approximately 30 minutes, I think). Remove from oven and allow to cool. When able to handle, slice pumpkin flesh away from skin into mixing bowl, and discard skin. Add cream, butter, nutmeg, cinnamon, and mix until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Ravioli-
Roll the pasta very thin, Cut into strips 3 inches wide and about twelve inches long. Spoon about 1 Tbsp of Pumpkin Ravioli mix onto pasta about 3 inches apart. Brush the edges of the pasta strip, and in between the pumpkin filling, with water. Place another pasta strip over the top and gently press along the edges to seal. Carefully press the air out of the pumpkin filling sections.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil. Add salt to boiling water (about 2 Tbsp). Add ravioli and cook for about 2 minutes, or until they float to the surface. Carefully remove from the boiling water with a slotted spoon.

Shallot and Butter Sage Sauce-
While water is just beginning to boil heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat and add butter. Add Shallots and sage when butter starts to melt. Cook for about 2 minutes, while ravioli is cooking.

Place ravioli on a plate and spoon shallot and sage butter sauce over the top. Garnish with chopped fresh thyme, toasted pinenuts and freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Serve immediately.

Buon Appetito!

-J

Pho Bien Hoa - Vietnamese Noodle House

2007-10-19T12:00:00.000-06:00

As the season transitions toward autumn and eventually into the frigid chill of winter we start to crave hot comforting food. And what is more comforting than a steaming bowl of noodle soup? Well, if you're looking for something different (and more flavorful) than the typical bowl of Campbells Noodle Soup, then look no further than a bowl of phở.

Phở, pronounced like "fuh", is a beef broth soup served with rice noodles and thin slices of beef. There are many variations, of course, such as meatballs, tendon, tripe, chicken, seafood, and even vegetarian. Each simmering bowl is typically served with a side bean sprouts, lime, basil and sliced jalapenos.

Phở Bien Hoa is tucked into a Swiss Village inspired strip mall just off of Redwood Road and 3500 South in Taylorsville. While the interior decor might be focused on the singular color of lime green, the menu has an expansive choice of over 26 variations of phở and an array of vermicelli dishes, rice dishes and appetizers.

Crispy Fried Rolls -$2.95

These warm crispy fried rolls are addictive. Take em' for a little dip in the chili oil.

Fresh Spring Rolls -$2.95

For something on the cool and refreshing side, try these fresh spring rolls dipped in the creamy flavorful peanut sauce. K has a certain fondness for anything dipped in peanut sauce, so this was right up her alley.

Pho Do Bien (Seafood Noodle Soup) -$6.50

I'm not sure if you can tell from the photo, but this is one BIG bowl of phở. Phở-real!

K is the surf, and I'm the turf in our relationship, so she couldn't refuse the bowl of steaming seafood. This bowl is served with mussels, shrimp, Krab and we think some sliced scallops. The scallops (if that's what they were) were a little overcooked for our taste (we like them almost raw), but this was the perfect bowl of comfort for K on a crisp fall day.

Pho Chin Nam (Beef Brisket and Flank Noodle Soup) -$6.50

I had to go for the Beef Brisket and Flank. In this bowl subtle hints of cinnamon and anise aromatics intermingled with the Thai basil and hearty beef stock. The thin slices of brisket and flank retained their rich beefy flavors in this hearty, and quite sizable, bowl of soup. Of course I added all of the jalapenos and a few generous dabs of chili oil, after all, it just isn't right until your noise starts running from all the heat.

Pho Sidecar of Bean Sprouts, Thai Basil, Jalapenos, Lime Wedges and Saw Grass

A large helping of fresh and vibrant ingredients are brought table side to help augment your soups, if you so desire.

If you are looking for affordable comfort, head on over to the west side of the valley and slurp some tasty noodle soup. I'm already looking forward to my next visit...See you there.

-J

Pho Bien Hoa
4146 South 1785 West
Taylorsville, UT 84119
(801) 969-2515
Open 7 days a week

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Technorati Tags: Dining - Restaurant Review - Vietnamese - Pho - Salt Lake City - Gourmand Syndrome

Chicken Enchiladas with Roasted Tomatillo Sauce

2007-10-16T20:29:00.000-06:00

Homemade Chicken Enchiladas with Roasted Tomatillo Sauce

You know how they say that you shouldn't go grocery shopping while you are hungry? Well, the same should be said about watching The Food Network while working out at the gym. Last week while stepping upward to nowhere I caught an episode of Tyler's Ultimate Chicken Enchiladas. When you are starving, burning away all your energy, and a captive audience, the beautiful footage of steaming enchiladas hooks you in. I fell victim. I couldn't wait to cook up a bubbling casserole dish of chicken enchiladas with fresh and tangy homemade tomatillo sauce.

The recipe can be found on The Food Network site. I didn't actually read it (it looks a little long) and since I'd seen it all done on T.V. anyway, I just used the web site for the ingredient list. Check it out yourself, and let me know what you think. The zesty Tomatillo sauce in these enchiladas dazzles the taste buds, though the bubbling cheese has given me cause to get back to the gym. And so the cycle continues...

-J

Gourmand Syndrome Turns One

2007-10-15T22:35:00.000-06:00

It is hard to believe that it has been one year since we created this blog. Since last October we've done everything from a Michelin-starred restaurant tour of Amsterdam to chowing down at taco carts in Salt Lake City. It inspires us to see visitors from locations as far as Vietnam visiting The Gourmand Syndrome, as it reinforces how passion for food is one of those common connections that everyone, regardless of borders, can share.

Tonight we celebrated The Gourmand Syndrome's one year anniversary with a bottle of bubbly from Oregon. Argyle's sparkling brut is 48% pinot noir, 52% chardonnay, and 100% wonderful memories of our past life in Portland. What better way to toast a beautiful year gone by, and set the stage for a delicious year to come?!

Check out this slide show of some of our culinary highlights from The Gourmand Syndrome's first year:

Happy Eating.

- K and J

Sea Scallops and Escolar with Gin Sauce

2007-09-29T23:50:00.002-06:00

Pan Seared Sea Scallops over Smoked Bacon and Turnip Puree with Mustard Greens Oil and Dill

Earlier today I had a menu planned around beef, but after visiting our favorite fish monger everything changed. Once I saw that they had fresh escolar, it was all over. I cannot pass up the rich meaty-flavor of escolar: particularly when sushi grade is available. Oh, and while there, I picked up a few fresh sea scallops just for fun.

Pan Seared Escolar Over Braised Mustard Greens. Served with Green Olives and Gin Sauce.

Usually, we simply slice off a few thin pieces of raw escolar, serve it with rice, a squeeze of lime and a touch of soy sauce. But, today I needed to get rid of the mustard greens in our garden because it was snowing. Yes, SNOWING, in September!! So, I figured I could use the spicy mustard greens as a base, and about halfway through, I realized that I had enough to make an oil from the mustard greens. What can I say, I love making colorful oils...after all, we eat with our eyes first!

Here is how it all came together (or so I remember after a few bottles of wine)

Turnip Puree:
1 Turnip
2 Tbsp butter
1/4 cup heavy whipping cream

Cut turnip in half. Slice halves into 1/8-inch thick pieces. Add turnip slices into boiling salted water. Cook until tender (about 15 minutes). Drain through colander. Place turnip in food processor and add butter and whipping cream. Blend until smooth.

Pan Seared Sea Scallops:
4 Sea Scallops
2 strips of smoked bacon (used in recipe for braised mustard greens)
Salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp canola oil
Mustard Greens Oil, as garnish (see following recipe)
Fresh Dill as garnish

Remove muscle from scallop. Pat dry with paper towel; sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. Heat canola oil in skillet over medium-high heat. When oil begins to shimmer add scallops and cook for 5 minutes, turning half-way through.

Mustard Greens Oil:
4 cups (or so) of fresh mustard greens, trimmed and chopped
1 cup canola oil (or olive oil)

Boil salted water in medium sauce pan. Blanch mustard greens for about 1 minute. Remove from boiling and place in ice bath. Strain and squeeze water from greens. Place strained greens in blender. Add oil and blend for about a minute. Strain through cheese cloth. Refrigerate and store in a squeeze bottle (lasts for about 2 weeks).

Plate scallops over turnip puree and bacon (from braised mustard greens recipe) and garnish with Mustard Greens Oil.

Pan Seared Escolar & Braised Mustard Greens:
1/3 lb Sushi-grade Escolar
4 cups Mustard Greens, trimmed and cut into 3-inch squares
4 cups Chicken Stock (total)
2 slices of thick-cut bacon
2 Tbsp butter
1 shallot diced
1 Star of Anise
1 sprig of rosemary
1 sprig of fresh thyme
4 Tbsp Gin
2 cloves of sliced garlic
2 Tbsp canola oil
Sliced green olives
2 garlic cloves sliced

Braised Mustard Greens:
Heat saute pan over medium-high heat. Add bacon and cook until fat is rendered (about 5 minutes). Set bacon aside for scallops (see recipe above). Add mustard greens and garlic, cook until greens start to wilt. Add 2 cups of chicken stock. Cover and cook over low heat for about twenty minutes, until tender.

Gin Sauce:
Heat 2 Tbsp of butter over medium heat in a sauce pan. Add shallot and cook until aromatic and tender (about 5 minutes). Remove pan from heat and add Gin (if Gin bursts into flames when placed over heat, just let alcohol burn-off, about 30 seconds). Add rosemary, thyme, star anise and remainder of chicken stock (2 cups). Cook until reduced by 3/4, or until proper consistency. Add butter and whisk to add sheen. Set aside off-heat.

Pan Seared Escolar:
Heat 2 Tbsp canola oil over medium-high heat in a saute pan. Add escolar when oil begins to shimmer and cook for about 2 minutes. Flip and cook another two minutes.

Plate escolar over braised mustard greens, and spoon gin sauce over top. Garnish with sliced green olives. Serve with a bottle (or two) of Oregon Pinot Noir.

Cheers,
-J

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Indochine Vietnamese Bistro

2007-09-22T17:40:00.000-06:00

Last weekend started with drinking bubbly out of Pilsner glasses at a friend's 40th birthday party (which is what happens when your friends are beer connoisseurs as opposed to wine). We kicked this weekend off in a much more civilized fashion, sharing only one bottle of wine Friday night, getting a good night's sleep, and even making an appearance at the gym this morning. What better way to reward ourselves than with a warm meal at Salt Lake City's newest Vietnamese restaurant?!

Indochine occupies the space formerly known as Gepetto's (and for about a minute, The Flying Scotsman) on University row near the University of Utah. Gepetto's had been dark, mysterious, and the site of a handful of first--and last--dates for me in college. I was curious to see how the new tenants had fixed the place up.

Our knowledge of Vietnamese food is certainly limited, but Indochine's menu, at nearly five pages long, is not. We finally narrowed it down from the array of interesting and diverse choices, and then sat back to take in the space. It's nothing fancy, but with white walls meeting up against those painted in crimson, bearing black and white photographs of French Indochina, Indochine is a vast improvement on the once lurid space.

Coconut-Curry Mussels - $7.99

With lemongrass, lime leaves, tomato, coconut, curry and--oh yeah, mussels--this appetizer was right up our alley.

Ha Noi Beef Noodle Soup - $8.99

The dish had a sweet and spicy smell: think vanilla or cinnamon. Deliciously comforting on a cool September day. (Of course, J loaded it with a selection of spices from the condiment tray.)

Braised Shrimp in Crab Paste - $12.99

Sweet, light, and somewhat healthy--or at least, that is what I convinced myself in ordering the brown rice.

The menu promotes Indochine as being open 7 days a week, and our server indicated that beginning in November, Indochine will indeed be open for lunch on Sundays. In a city where Costco is about the most happening thing taking place on the 7th day, it just doesn't get much better than that.

- K

Indochine Vietnamese Bistro
230 South 1300 East
Salt Lake City, UT 84102
801.582.0896

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Porcupine Pub & Grille

2007-09-16T09:18:00.000-06:00

The leaves have started to change along the Wasatch Front, making way for fall, which is quite possibly Salt Lake City's most beautiful season. When the night temperatures start to dip and the foothills have a sprinkling of red, I start craving beer cheese soup from the Porcupine Pub & Grille.

Nestled at the mouth of Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons (the source of some of ~~Utah's~~ the World's best skiing) Porcupine Pub & Grille starts serving up its beer cheese soup in September. In October they celebrate Oktoberfest with an array of other treats: think bratwurst, sauerkraut, and female staff running around in dimdl dresses.

Cup of Beer Cheese Soup - $2.99

Comes with a nice warm Baci roll riding sidecar. We were both nursing hangovers from a friend's 40th birthday party the night before, and some bread dunked in beer cheese soup (and a few aspirin) ended up being just what the doctor ordered.

- K

Porcupine Pub & Grille
3698 East Fort Union Blvd.
Salt Lake City, UT 84121
801.942.5555

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Tacos El Paisa

2007-09-11T21:40:00.000-06:00

It is always a challenge to to find something cheap and easy to eat in Salt Lake City on Sunday. To make matters worse we had already blown our weekend food budget with several trips to our new favorite spot, Acme Burger Company, so we needed something affordable.

My numero uno taco cart happens to be located at 7200 South State Street in Murray, but on this particular Sunday it was nowhere to be found. Such is the risk when your restaurant is mobile. With my preferred restaurant on wheels closed we rolled downtown to the taco cart epicenter: located at the downtown Sears (between State Street and Main on 800 South).

Tacos El Paisa Dining Room

K likes Tacos El Paisa because she can get a veggie burrito there. I happen to think that this particular cart also has excellent beans, and a nice thin flour tortilla (they also have cheese, which some do not offer).

I ordered a carne asada taco and a carnitas taco. The carne asada had a grilled smoky flavor and was my favorite. The carnitas was chunky and tasty, but I usually prefer my pork shredded. The salsa was bright and fresh...not to mention spicy.

Carne Asada Burrito -$3

I accidentally ended up ordering an extra burrito because of my poor Spanish skills, so in addition to K's veggie, we got this bulky carne asada number. I swear the burrito weighed well over one pound, no joke. It took me two days to finish the whole thing.

If you are looking for a great deal, don't be afraid to try one of these mobile dining establishments. The ambience might not be worthy of a Michelin star, and the seating is usually in the form of a curb or a brick wall, but the food is the real deal.

- J

Tacos El Paisa
800 South Main Street
Salt Lake City, UT 84101

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Hamiltons Steak & Seafood

2007-09-08T19:55:00.000-06:00

We really wanted to get out of dodge for Labor Day weekend but that old, unshakable relative known as "the budget" prevented us from doing so. By Monday we were stir crazy, and in need of anything remotely approaching the word "trip"--even if it came in the form of a drive to Logan, Utah, about an hour and a half north of Salt Lake. What better excuse to visit a small, agricultural college town and dine at its finest restaurant?

For three years Hamiltons has been serving up seafood and steaks in a fairly rural, and still relatively undiscovered, town. I was surprised to find a blackened ahi tuna on the menu for a mere $18, along with a bottle of Adelsheim Pinot Noir for around $50ish...definitely a fair mark-up.

Though I hate to chat specifics on meat, I will report for J that Hamiltons offers corn-fed USDA stockyard beef aged up to four weeks. Locally ground organic flour is used for the house made bread, and we were thrilled with the restaurants extensive menu of wine and spirits. Hamiltons also hosts seasonal wine dinners, which are reasonably priced, and surely a nice way for local heathens to connect. Check out their upcoming schedule by emailing wine@hamiltonssteakhouse.com.

Oysters on the half shell - $3 each

A little pricey, since a dozen can usually run you around $15, but they were fresh, delicious and worth the added investment.

Bouillabase - $22

Mussels, clams, halibut, salmon, and crab in a tomato basil broth. Probably a perfect selection in December or January, but for early September, it felt a bit heavy.

Bone-in Kansas City Strip Steak - $35

Beautifully cooked with a rich beefy flavor. Let's just say it could be a meal all by itself. J had a difficult time finishing the creamy mashed potatoes after topping off the 16 oz. steak.

Chocolate Chantilly Cake with Pistachio Ice Cream - $7

Hamiltons desserts are made in-house, though I'd rather not ask for a calorie-check. Ignorance is bliss on this one. The pistachio ice cream was the perfect fit to tame the rich chocolate. But once the ice cream was gone, there was still a huge chunk of cake left. After three days later I finally managed to eat every last bit.

- K

Hamiltons Steak & Seafood
2427 N. Main Street
Logan, UT 84341
435.787.8450
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Faustina

2007-09-04T20:47:00.000-06:00

We've loved the look of Faustina since it took up residence in downtown Salt Lake City a little under two years ago. Between the smooth gray river rocks lining the front path and the avocado green walls inside, it embodies more than a few of our favorite things.

And yet we could probably count on one hand the number of times we've been to the Italian-inspired eatery. Given that we both work in the burbs, it just isn't a convenient lunch spot for us. So with Friday being the conclusion of a grueling workweek and the launch of a holiday weekend, we decided to get the party started with a decidedly downtown meal.

Shrimp Bisque - served with grilled prawn and cilantro confetti - $4.25

The soup was poured table side: silky bisque cascading into a bowl of shrimp and cilantro.

Lobster Ravioli - $11.25

Light and refreshing. J cleaned his plate.

Three-Cheese Macaroni - $9.95

Comfort food Faustina-style: thick, creamy and not the least bit hip and thigh friendly. I'm thinking this is a little combo of asiago, cheddar and romano.

Faustina's such a beautiful little retreat...hopefully we'll get back sooner as opposed to later.

- K

Faustina
454 East 300 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
801.746.4441

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Acme Burger Company

2007-09-01T22:02:00.001-06:00

Don't let the name fool you: There is nothing generic about Salt Lake City's newest eatery. While burgers may be the focus, Acme Burger Company's menu not only proffers a burger for everyone's taste, but a wealth of other intriguing selections as well.

With a foundation built on quality ingredients Acme offers burgers made from grass-fed beef, ostrich, wild Northwest salmon and even a housemade 3-Bean veggieburger. For those not wanting to dabble in burgerville, Skirt Teak Tataki, Curried Acorn Squash Bisque and Fresh Hummus & Eggplant Tahini with warm Pita hold their own on this creative and well-planned menu.

The restaurant is a collaboration between executive chef Adam Kreisel, Kipp Kelley and Alan Ireland. Locally, Kreisel previously served as co-owner of The Globe Cafe and executive chef for Sundance Resort. Outside of Utah he spent time exercising his culinary passion in Italy, as the private chef for NBC Executives during the 2006 Winter Games, and in the Bay Area, at Mecca and Acquerello. He and Ireland both visited our table during our meal to talk about their restaurant's approach to fine ingredients served up without an ounce of pretension. It is evident that both men believe in what they are doing and hope it will change the way Salt Lake City dines. Given their grace and humility, Kreisel and Ireland are careful to tiptoe around the obvious: despite being knee-deep in its soft-opening, Acme has already succeeded.

With so many delectable offerings to choose from, here's how we narrowed it down for our first--of what will clearly be many--visits to Acme Burger Company:

Grandma Sari's Potato Pancakes - $4

Light and fluffy on the tongue, these little slices of heaven came with applesauce and crème fraîche . For 10 bucks you can get the version with house-cured salmon.

Acme Breath Enhancer - Grass-fed beef, bibb lettuce, red onion, roasted garlic aioli, garden herb toast, provolone cheese - $8

Pure bliss! J was thrilled: hands-down the best burger in the state. Perfectly cooked and seasoned. The ingredients complemented one another seamlessly, so that no one element took center stage on the palate. The shoestring potatoes were delightful: crispy on the outside, tender on the inside. Tres bien!

Salmon Burger - Curly endive, pickled ginger cream cheese, shiso vinaigrette, pumpernickel and marble rye bread - $11

The last time I ordered a salmon burger in town I ended up with a fried patty in the shape of a square, nestled between two pieces of enriched white bread. As a Washington girl, I was entirely offended. In contrast, this little beauty from Acme is everything that a salmon burger should be--and more. The salmon was fresh, and the cream cheese and vinaigrette provided a nice zing. Very thoughtful choice on the bread, too--a tangy alternative to your basic bun.

Thick-cut steak fries - $4

Burgers come a la carte at Acme, but alas, potatoes can be ordered "your way" from the array of side options. Thick-cut steak fries, shoestring potatoes, rosemary potatoes and the potato pancakes can all be ordered in single ($4) or family ($11) helpings. The fries arrive in a cone-shaped basket, reminiscent of a smoky cafe on St. Germaine.

Chocolate Shake - $6

As far as I'm concerned, a chocolate shake creates the perfect ménage à trois when paired with a burger and fries. Whatever your pleasure, Acme delivers the quintessential food orgasm by offering strawberry, vanilla or chocolate shakes. The small comes in a chilled, oversize flute, with an ample sidecar of excess to keep your dining partners out of your glass. If the small serving makes a menage a trois, then the large must be a full-on orgy.

While I think a frosty shake is the perfect accompaniment to a burger and fries, J insists on a good glass of red wine. Fortunately, Acme has a full bar, which includes wine, beer and spirits. As I indulged in my sugar fix, J sipped a silky smooth Tempranillo.

Just when we thought we couldn't muster another bite, Chef Kreisel kindly sent out a trio of housemade sorbet: prickly pear, peach with thyme and triple berry with terragon. We managed to clean yet another plate, including the handful of bite-size snickerdoodles, still warm from the oven. Waddling out to our car, we were already planning what we want to try on our next visit. Hope to see you there.

- K

**Editor's Note: 8/03/08 We learned that as of some time in late June of this year, Adam Kreisel is no longer with Acme Burger Company. We are sorry to hear this, but glad to have seen him around at another Gourmand Syndrome fav, Tony Caputo's Market & Deli. A few teasers online suggest a risottoria may be in the works. We can't wait to find out.

Acme Burger Company
275 South 200 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
801.257.5700

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Sunday - Thursday 11:00 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday - 11:00 a.m. to midnight (or so)

Chianti Braised Beef Short Ribs

2007-08-31T22:00:00.000-06:00

Chianti Braised Beef Short Ribs with Turnip Puree

I've been watching a turnip grow in our garden over the summer, wondering when it would be ready to harvest. A few weeks ago it started to overtake everything planted within its leafy expanse; I figured it was time to pluck the enormous root vegetable.

The next question was, what to do with it. Our garden also happened to be overrun with basil, and I love making basil oil, both for its wonderful taste, and for the way it looks when it is drizzled across a white plate. With that in mind, I decided to puree the turnip; braised short ribs would hold their own just fine against the edgy turnip puree. (Especially if they were braised in a flavorful red wine.)

Normally, I wouldn't recommend firing up the stove for the 2-hour braising process during the heat of summer, but in this case, you won't regret it. The braised short ribs are so wonderfully flavorful, and the turnip puree gives a unique texture and flavor that ordinary mashed potatoes just can't match.

Turnip Puree (serves 2):

1 large turnip - peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/3 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp butter
salt & pepper to taste

Cook turnip in boiling salt water until very tender (about 25 minutes). Drain and return to pot. Cook over medium heat until turnip dries slightly. Puree the turnip, butter and cream in a blender or food processor until smooth. Add more cream if needed to reach desired consistency. Salt and pepper to taste.

The turnip puree can be made ahead of time and reheated before serving.

Chianti Braised Beef Short Ribs (Serves 2):

2 lbs beef short ribs
6 cups chianti (or other dry red wine)
4 cups beef stock (or low sodium chicken stock)
2 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 yellow onion sliced (cut in half, then slice into 1/2" pieces)
1 Tbsp brown sugar
2 Tbsp tomato paste
1 carrot
2 bay leaves
4 thyme sprigs
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pat dry and generously apply salt and pepper to short ribs. Heat a large oven-proof pot over high heat and add vegetable oil. Add short ribs when the oil shimmers, or just starts to smoke. Cook short ribs until browned, then flip and brown all other sides of the ribs. The browning will provide a nice deep rich flavor and texture to the finished product. After the ribs have been browned, remove and set aside.

Turn heat down to medium-high. Add the onion and brown sugar, and cook until the onion starts to turn a nice caramel color. Add the tomato paste and cayenne pepper, and cook until the tomato paste starts to brown. Add the wine and scrape the brown bits free from the surface of the pan.

Add the stock, bay leaves and thyme and bring to a simmer. Add the short ribs back into the pot. The cooking liquid should almost cover the short ribs. Add additional wine or stock if needed to almost cover the short ribs. Most of the liquid will evaporate while in the oven, so make sure you have enough braising liquid.

Cover the pot and place into the preheated oven. Cook until fork tender (1-1/2 to 2 hours). The longer the ribs are cooked, and at a lower temperature, the more flavorful and succulent the short ribs will turn out. Be careful when opening the pot, as it will be steamy and hot!

Take pot out of oven and set ribs aside. Strain braising liquid into a sauce pan. Discard onion, carrot, thyme and bay leaves. Simmer sauce over medium-high heat until proper consistency. Skim fat from sauce and degrease with a paper towel. Add salt and pepper to taste.

When the short ribs have cooled, separate the meat from the bone and shred into chunks with a fork. Serve over warm turnip puree, and spoon sauce over top. Enjoy!

-J

Settebello

2007-08-25T19:33:00.001-06:00

Settebello is like that new kid who comes to school mid-year and becomes popular within weeks. Upon opening in Salt Lake City in January 2007, the Napoli style pizzeria has had no problem attracting a diverse fan club of hipsters, families and out-of-towners looking for a savory slice of pie. Perhaps that is because the pizza is like nothing else Salt Lake City has seen: authentic, thin crust pizza made with quality ingredients at a reasonable price. And with Settebello's Napoli style brick oven, it is also fast: pizzas cook in less than a minute.

Pizzaiolo Matteo Schiavone was recruited from Italy to train staff on how to prepare authentic Napoli style pizza, and to serve as Settebello's master pizzaiolo. Furthering the focus on quality, many of the meats are purchased from Salumi, the Seattle-based artisan meats deli owned and operated by Armando Bartali (you know, Mario's dad). The flour is imported from Molino Caputo, one of the oldest mills in Napoli. In a city where you still cannot buy wine in the grocery store, Settebello has nonetheless managed to provide a legitimate Italian experience.

Quattro Stagioni - Margherita divided into four sections. Each section topped separately with wood oven roasted sausage, salame, roasted mushrooms and kalamata olives - $10.99

Margherita - crushed tomatoes, mozzarella, basil, parmigiano reggiano, extra virgin olive oil - $8.99

These are our "staple" pizzas, but a must to try is the Bianca, with prosciutto crudo, fresh arugula, mozzarella, basil, parmigiano reggiano, and extra virgin olive oil, all for the bargain price of $11.99. The wine list romantically features wines from the Campania region: the same soil responsible for Settebello's tomatoes and flour.

Co-owners Michael Brooks and Brad Otton also run a location in Las Vegas, but don't let that scare you: there is nothing "chain" about Settebello. (Although we do wish they'd open another one closer to our house so we'd have an excuse to enjoy it more than once a week!)

- K

Settebello
260 South 200 West
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
801.322.3556

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Lark

2007-08-22T20:54:00.000-06:00

Another summer, another family reunion. Further guaranteeing our permanent residence in Hell, we flew in to Seattle a day earlier than the family knew, in order to enjoy dinner downtown before heading across the water to the festivities. Sound a bit extreme? Consider yourself invited to the 2008 reunion.

We'd read about Lark in the July 2007 issue of Food & Wine, and were eager to experience chef Jonathan Sundstrom's back-to-the-land commitment. Offering small plates based on what's in season and available, Lark encourages a communal approach to dining, allowing guests to indulge in a wider variety of flavors and experiences while reveling in the company of friends.

Lark is an easy stroll from downtown, nestled near Seattle University in Capitol Hill. Heavy on wood and exposed beams, the sustainable Seattle eatery preserves its only frivolity for a snaking panel of sheer curtains. It's the kind of place where you immediately feel you are going to eat well, have great conversation, and lose yourself in a bottle of wine--or two.

With treats like Yellowstone river paddlefish caviar with rosti potatoes and clabber cream ($20) and Carpaccio of Yellowtail with preserved lemons and green olives ($14) Lark absolutely fit the bill for a fresh, interesting meal.

What didn't fit the bill? My American Express card. As of early August Lark only accepted Visa and Mastercard, though there is not a drop of warning about this on the door, menu or web site. Could potentially make for a very embarrassing date night if you ended up there with a fat check and your Discover card. Just make sure you pack the right plastic, and then get ready for a priceless meal.

- K

Lark
926 12th Avenue
Seattle, WA 98122
206.323.5275

Caffe Niche

2007-08-04T09:38:00.000-06:00

There was a time when the old brick building at the corner of Salt Lake City's 3rd South and 8th East housed an old, dingy laundromat and a vintage clothing store. For years the building oozed potential, and as the tenants vacated the laundromat transitioned to a cute, airy hair salon. We watched in anticipation as brown paper went up over the windows on the other side, with a paisley print sign promising "Caffe Niche: Coming Soon." It was well worth the wait.

Caffe Niche serves up fresh soups, and sandwiches, with a focus on high quality ingredients. The sleek interior, including the polished concrete floors and dark wood tables, provides a clean canvas for the work of local artists, which is prominently displayed on the walls. Caffe Niche also serves up wine for us heathens.

The portions at Caffe Niche are appropriately sized, so you don't have to feel like you consumed a full day's worth of calories in one meal. The menu is interesting yet simple, and the prices are reasonable for the level of quality. Their soups, salad dressings and delicious pastries are all prepared in-house.

Roasted Tomato Basil Soup - $5

The Bologona - Italian Mortadella and fresh goat cheese, drizzled with Aceto Balsamico $6.50

Grilled Cheese - Irish cheddar and Stilton with pecans $6.50

Coconut Cupcake - $2.50

Weekends offer a brunch menu, with such treats as Italian scrambled eggs with pine nut pesto, sourdough bread and ricotta cheese, and baked apple oatmeal. And with brunch menu items coming in at $5.50 or under, Caffe Niche won't break the bank--or your diet.

- K

Caffe Niche
779 East 300 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84102
801.433.3380
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Mozzarella al Limone

2007-07-08T11:03:00.000-06:00

It has been a scorcher here in SLC, and we are short on energy, heavy on the need for delicicious summer treats. Enter this light summer appetizer, adapted from a combination of recipes from Jamie Oliver's Great Escape and the May 2006 issue of Saveur magazine.

Both original recipes call for fresh lemon leaves to cover the mozzarella while cooking, which can be difficult to obtain unless you happen to have a lemon tree. I have modified the recipes and created a self-containing "cup" from the lemon which I use to to cook the mozzarella without the use of a lemon leaf. Since modifying the recipe I bought a couple of Dwarf Meyer Lemon bushes, but I still use the lemon "cups" because they are handy and cute.

Ingredients:
Lemons
Fresh Mozzarella
Fresh Basil
Cherry Tomatoes (optional)
Salt
Pepper
Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Process:

Step 1.
Remove the nipple from the end of the lemon to create a level surface.

Step 2.
Slice off a thin piece from each end of the lemon. This will make the bottom of the "cup". Next slice the lemon in half and carefully remove the pulp with a pairing knife creating a ring of lemon rind.

Step 3.
Place the thin slice of the lemon end into the ring of lemon rind to create a "cup" to keep the melted mozzarella from escaping.

Step 4.
Place fresh basil in the bottom of the lemon "cup".

Step 5.
Stuff the lemon "cup" with fresh mozzarella. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.

Place mozzarella "cups" on cookie sheet covered with parchment paper and bake until mozzarella has melted. Serve with toasted bread and preferably an ice cold glass of Limoncello. Spread the melted cheese over the toasted bread and enjoy.

- J

Les Madeleines

2007-05-31T22:28:00.000-06:00

Since moving back to Salt Lake City from Portland in the summer of 2005, we have been pining away for the incredible croissants at our former neighborhood stop, Pearl Bakery. We'd begun to think that crisp, buttery croissants were going to have to be a plane ride away. That is, until we met Vanessa, writer of fellow SLC blog She Craves, who graciously pointed out that SLC patisserie, Les Madeleines, offers up beautiful, buttery croissants from scratch two days a week!

It's no surprise that we hadn't tripped across Les Madeleines before. It happens to be located on State Street, one of those roads that we just don't travel much, short of needing an oil change or a new car. So you can imagine our surprise when we found out that behind the cinderblock structure with a lime green awning located at 660 S. State are the city's best croissants--on Fridays and Saturdays, that is.

The best $1.95 you can spend in Salt Lake City on a Friday or Saturday.

But incredible croissants are just the beginning. Les Madeleines is best known for its Kouing-aman; so much so that they've had to institute a limit on how many one can buy on a visit. As the signage sweetly explains, this is so that every customer has a chance to buy one (though they will happily take pre-orders for as many as you'd like). I've yet to indulge in the Meyer Lemon Meringue Tartlette, which I stare at longingly during every visit. Gauging from the thick peaks of meringue, when I do give in I won't be disappointed.

And so began my new routine of driving down to Les Madeleines every Saturday morning for a few croissants, which I bring home to J and his awaiting cappucini. It isn't a cheap habit--or one that is particularly low in calories--but there is something immensely satisfying about supporting someone who offers a delicious, local alternative to mass-produced baked goods. Do I selfishly wish Les Madeleines were closer to my neighborhood? Sure. Will that stop me from driving down there every Saturday in my pajamas to feed our craving? Not a chance.

- K

Les Madeleines Patisserie and Cafe
~~660 S. State Street~~
216 East 500 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
(801) 355-2294

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Wish

2007-05-17T23:15:00.000-06:00

After sitting on Wish's balcony for a glass of wine one evening, we decided the South Beach eatery, located at The Hotel, would make a great site for our final dinner in Miami. The scene on their outdoor patio was easy and chic, with comfy chairs, trees wrapped in tiny white lights, and remixed Beth Orton playing overhead.

Thai Grouper Ceviche with coconut milk, Thai basil, ginger and lemongrass - $17

Fresh, light and tangy. I wish we'd ordered two.

Black Trumpet Dusted Diver Scallops with lemon and thyme, Pumpkin Pie Risotto - $35

When a dish combines some of my favorite things ever, I have a hard time sitting still after ordering. Such was the case with this combination of spicy pumpkin risotto and black trumpet dusted diver scallops. The risotto truly did taste like pie, and was so filling that I could barely finish my fourth scallop. But of course I managed to find room for dessert...

Crisy Skinned Snapper with grilled shrimp, chinese sausage, jasmine rice and Vietnamese tea foam - $36

With its Asian-inspired flavors and crispy-skinned fish, this dish had J licking his plate clean. The little puffy clouds of Vietnamese tea foam almost tasted like coconut, and had the consistency of dreams on a lazy summer day.

PB and Jay: Dark chocolate and peanut butter tart, rasperry jam and peanut butter gelato - $12

I had to fight back tears of joy when I saw this dessert selection on the menu. Between the nutty gelato, streak of jam and rich chocolate and peanut butter tart (did I mention the mint leaves) I felt like I was nine years old again, coming up with sweet concoctions in the kitchen while my babysitter watched The Love Boat.

It is safe to say that my dreams came true at Wish.

- K

Wish
801 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach, FL 33139
305-674-9474

Blue Door at the Delano

2007-04-22T20:31:00.000-06:00

I had booked our res at Blue Door at the Delano a while back, and ended up getting so busy in between then and actually arriving in Miami Beach, that I couldn't quite remember the menu. But just walking up to the crisp white Delano hotel upon our arrival in South Beach, I knew we were in for a good evening.

Stepping inside the Delano is like walking into a place so elaborate and posh that if you don't own a Bentley, you expect to be kicked out any minute. However, the lobby of this fabulous hotel is surprisingly kick back (though maybe a little scandalous), and a few steps down the long white hall, which is framed with 40 ft. sheer drapes, I realized we would be able to slip under the radar just fine, due to the excess of beautiful people milling about. Just looking at the Blue Door's cabana boy-esque wait staff, draped head to toe in white, had me expecting to spill my wine, but fortunately we escaped the meal stain free--though I am not sure I can say the same for the French couple next to us, who somehow managed to order a cheese pizza and fries for their kids.

The dining room at the Blue Door, where white is the new black.

Sauteed scallops with grilled hearts of palm, dulce de leche, and wild rice popcorn - $21

I'm typically not a huge caramel fan, but the velvety dulce de leche was the perfect match to these meaty scallops.

Foiegranana - seared foie gras with ginger, glazed pineapple, jalapeno and wasabi peanuts - $28

It seemed like it had been forever since J had pan seared foie gras, and so he was in heaven with this salty yet sweet indulgence.

Thon Confit: caramelized miso tuna with oven confit sweet tomatoes, shallots, capers, garlic and parsley vinaigartte, crispy beignets - $37

The tuna was nice and rare, as I like it, but the tomato, capers and garlic overpowered the fish a bit.

Agneau Menta - Rack of lamb brushed with passion fruit and mint, toasted couscous, raisins, almonds, and pearl onions - $48

While this dish was tasty and certainly cooked well, J realized it didn't compare to the fresh, local Morgan Valley lamb he can get at home.

Melted bitter sweet chocolate cake with caramelized pistachio ice cream - $12

Delicious and refreshing, but $12? It was a sponge cake spoon...not a silver one.

- K

Blue Door at the Delano
1685 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach, FL 33139
(305) 674.6400

Lamb Pita with Yoghurt Sauce

2007-04-01T19:00:00.000-06:00

K is out of town for a week and I am left to my own devices, which generally means that I eat at the taco carts that are randomly scattered around downtown. She is not a huge fan of the lengua, carnitas, or other various tacos being served from these mobile eateries, so I get my fill when she is out of town. This weekend is different though...okay, I still did go to the taco cart, but I also made good use of some leftover lamb. I loved the Morgan Valley Lamb Sirloin so much that I made it again, and since I am alone I had plenty of leftovers. I figured I'd make a greek-style pita, which seemed like the perfect way to use a few slices of flavorful lamb sirloin.

I didn't want to use some crappy pita that has been sitting around on a store shelf for God-knows-how-long, so I found a quick and easy recipe for pita bread at What's4Eats, and baked up a few fluffly warm pitas. I filled the pitas with some breath-killing yoghurt sauce, tomatoes, red onions and mesculin lettuce and had my own "greek taco"...no cart needed.

Recipe:

Warm pita bread (click here for recipe)
Sliced lamb leftovers (from previous recipe)
1/2 Cup Greek-style yoghurt
2 cloves garlic crushed
zest of one lemon
1/4 cup cubed cucumber
1/2 small red onion sliced
1 tomato diced
handful of lettuce (season with salt, pepper and a dash of olive oil)

Process:

Mix yoghurt, garlic, lemon zest and cucumber in a mixing bowl and let rest for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, cook pita bread and reheat lamb sirloin slices. When pita is finished baking serve with two Tbsp of the yoghurt sauce, diced tomatoes, red onion and lettuce. You can stuff ingredients into the pita...or eat "taco style" like I did.

Bon Appetit.

-J

Morgan Valley Lamb Sirloin

2007-03-25T22:40:00.000-06:00

When considering all that Utah has to offer, people typically think about the outdoors. Sure, we have the greatest snow on earth, amazing rock climbing, challenging bike trails, inspiring hiking trails and beautiful national parks, but what they might not know is that we also have some of the best lamb. Lamb? Yeah, that's right, lamb.

If you think about it, it makes perfect sense. We have some of the most beautiful and prestine landscapes imaginable, and that translates into the perfect place to raise quality lamb. Fortunately, Linda and Jamie Gillmor realized that fact, and have been selling their naturally raised Morgan Valley Lamb since 2001. It can be found in some of Utah's best restaurants and specialty stores, but we are fortunate enough to live a only a quick bicycle ride away from Emigration Market which sells Morgan Valley Lamb.

After recently reading Vanessa Chang's insightful article on Morgan Valley Lamb in Salt Lake Magazine, I was itching to get my hands on some fresh lamb. So, after a day of grueling spring yard work, K and I peddled up to Emigration Market and picked up a lamb sirlion.

Since it was a sunny spring day I figured that the most appropriate way to prepare the lamb sirloin was on the grill. Being the sauce-whore that I am, I also prepared a little brandy/port reduction sauce, but I can tell you that the lamb is so tasty by itself that a sauce is not necessary. Believe me, the lamb sirloin is so succulent and flavorful that all it needs is a big glass of red wine!

Ingredients (serves two, of course):

Lamb-
1 lb. Morgan Valley Super Trim Lamb Sirloin
1 Tbsp chopped rosemary (leaves only)
1 tsp chopped thyme (leaves only)
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Kosher Salt
Freshly ground pepper

Brandy/Port Sauce-
1/4 cup Brandy
1/4 cup Port
1/2 cup veal stock (chicken or beef will work fine)
1 shallot diced
1 tsp chopped thyme (leaves only)
2 Tbsp unsalted butter

Roasted Potatoes-
8 fingerling potatoes (any small red or white variety)
2 finely chopped garlic cloves
1 tsp chopped rosemary (leaves only)
8 grape tomatoes halved
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
dash of Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper

Process:

To make the potatoes:
Half or quarter the potatoes so that all pieces are approximately the same size. Mix the potatoes with garlic, rosemary, olive oil, salt and pepper in a small mixing bowl. Spread potatoes evenly in aluminum foil with ends folded up to keep oil and potatoes contained. Cook in oven at 400 degrees for about 15-20 minutes or until a fork can be effortlessly inserted into a potato. Just before done add tomatoes and cook for another 3-5 minutes (stir into potatoes).

To make the Brandy Port Sauce:
Heat the butter in a sauce pan over medium heat and add shallots. Cook shallots for about 5 minutes or until tender and aromatic. Add Brandy and Port and cook until reduced by 3/4 (about 5 minutes). Add stock and simmer until reduced about 3/4. Set aside and keep warm until lamb is ready. If sauce reduces too much add water to bring back to proper consistency (do not use stock or wine to adjust consistency, as it is the water that has evaporated). Strain sauce before spooning over lamb.

To make the Lamb:
Drizzle olive oil over each side of lamb sirloin and sprinkle with salt pepper and rosemary leaves. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for about one hour. Heat grill to medium-high. Cook for about 15-20 minutes, or until internal temperature reaches 145 degrees for medium rare. Let meat rest for about five minutes before carving. Slice meat against the grain about 1/4 - 1/2 inches thick.

Assemble lamb and potatoes on a plate and spoon warm sauce over meat. Serve with a favorite salad (we used arugula with lemon, olive oil and shaved parmesan) and spicy full-bodied red wine. Bon Appetite.

-J

Lugano - James Beard House Preview Dinner

2007-03-11T22:16:00.000-06:00

I drive by Lugano nearly every day on my way to work, and yet we've only been there once before. I'm not sure if it is because the location is borderline suburban, or if it is that the locally owned Italian restaurant maintains a low profile. Nonetheless we had enjoyed our first visit years ago, and so I was thrilled when J booked us for their James Beard House preview dinner.

Chef Greg Neville prepared a tasting menu centered around Italy's Veneto region and paired with wines from two wine makers from that region. Representatives from both wineries, Bisol and Le Salette, were at the dinner to speak about their beautiful wines. In our city of nutty liquor laws and limited selection, for a split second, we got to experience that romantic connection between chef and winemaker.

Italian Wine Lover's Dinner - $55 per person, $35 additional per person for wine pairings

Venetian Sole 'in saor' with crispy cipollini onions
Ahi Tuna tartare w/ quartered quail eggs, extra-virgin olive oil, shallots & capers
Warm savory profiteroles filled w/ mushroom duxelles & langoustine

The quail eggs were a sweet treat atop the tartare, and the langoustine was a unique challenge to crack open at a table full of strangers.

Fresh ruby red albacore 'crudo' w/ shaved raw asparagus salad & fresh black truffle vinaigrette
Beef carpaccio w/ dungeness crab remoulade & julienne celeryroot/crab salad

We both like it raw, so we were delighted to see these two uniquely different versions of carpcaccio on the menu. Both were scrumptious. The albacore version tasted garden fresh and light, whereas the beef carpaccio was topped with a bold and richly flavored salad.

Stewed borlotti beans with seared sea scallops and ripasso reduction

The meal's theme was venetian, but with the beans, fennel and olive oil, J found this course to be quite Tuscan. In fact, it brought back memories of dining on a quiet street behind Siena's il Campo. He couldn't get enough, and kindly offered to help me with mine, but with the plump scallop tucked under the thinly shaved fennel, his services were not needed.

Roasted pancetta wrapped monkfish tail w/parsnip & cannellini bean puree, wild mushroom Valpolicella reduction

It was fun to have the reduction made with the very wine we were drinking with this course: a ruby red from the Veneto region. The smoky pancetta was the perfect blanket for this delectable white fish lounging on a bed of creamy puree.

Braised short rib-filled calamari 'in umido' with snow peas & lobster risotto

After finishing this opulent course we knew a trip to the gym needed to be in our immediate future. To call it rich would be an understatement.

Vanilla bean panna cotta with sweet Cartizze aspic and butter cookies

I'm not a real panna cotta fan myself, but of course that didn't keep me from downing the sweet finale to this delicious meal.

It is an honor for a chef to prepare a dinner at the James Beard House, and so this Salt Lake City preview dinner felt like a party of locals celebrating Neville's upcoming jaunt to the Big Apple. Neville and his team's ability to pump out such interesting food for an entire restaurant of people all at the same time was nothing short of tremendous teamwork and focused communication. On Wednesday, March 14, 2007 Neville and his team will recreate this delicious Italian Wine Lover's Dinner at the James Beard House, and in a small way we got to be part of it.

- K

Lugano
3364 South 2300 East
Salt Lake City, UT 84117
801.412.9994

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Campton Place Bar

2007-02-26T20:36:00.000-07:00

While waiting for our table in Campton Place's dining room, we had a chance to admire the pommes frites guests were dining on in the hotel's adjacent bar. Wrapped in cone-shaped baskets, the fries looked positively irresistable in that cafe-on-St. Germaine-way. So on Sunday afternoon, after doing far too much damage in the nearby Union Square shopping district, we slipped back to Campton Place to indulge our craving.

Campton Place Cheesburger - $17

Good, but it could have used a dash of salt. The fries helped with that.

Pommes Frites - came with the burger

Ah, that's what we're talking about.

Cheese Plate - $15

Bleu Cheese, Aged Cheddar, Triple Cream--all from California. A light lunch so I could save room for dessert...

Espresso Crème Brûlée - $9

I do love a good Crème Brûlée, and throwing espresso and a little vanilla ice cream into the mix? I must have done something nice to be able to redeem so many karma points in one meal. J took one bite and decided it tasted like pudding, which just meant all the more for me.

- K

Campton Place Bar
340 Stockton Street
San Francisco, CA 94108
866 332 1670

Campton Place Restaurant

2007-02-20T21:40:00.000-07:00

It was pouring rain when we slipped into this Union Square boutique hotel for a late afternoon lunch. And so maybe it was the dreary weather, or the fact that we'd gotten up at the crack of dawn and were now positively famished, but the elegant restaurant immediately felt cozy. Especially when our server promptly pushed the champagne cart our way, reminding us of those days in the school cafeteria when the milk lady had chocolate milk on her cart. On this grown-ups version of the milk cart we had our choice of four different bubblies, sans the calcium and hairnet. We quickly selected a blanc de blancs, and let the games begin.

Amuse Bouche - Coconut and Parsnip Soup with Poached Lobster

The texture of the soup was silky and luxurious. The coconut and parsnip played off each other, keeping the flavor from being too rich or bitter; a perfect harmony. The little bite of lobster was a tease--I longed for more.

Celery Root Soup - Ras al Hanout, Cauliflower, and Olio Nuovo - included with the chicken for $26, or $13 a la carte

Loved the flavor of the soup--that slightly bitter, sour celery root bite--but the little pieces of cauliflower were somewhat distracting.

Kampachi Sashimi - Blood Orange, Black Trumpet Mushroom Puree - $14

The sashimi equivalent of champagne and strawberries. The fish was mouth-watering and delicate, and the strawberries and fennel made it sweet and refreshing. Kind of looks like a heart with an arrow through it, huh? After all, we were celebrating an early Valentine's Day...

Fulton Valley Farms Chicken Breast - Maitake Mushrooms, Sunchoke, and Nettle Puree - $26

I'm really not much of a chicken fan. Ok, I usually don't even eat the stuff. (Makes it kind of hard to laugh at "tastes like chicken" jokes.) But given that my pant legs were soaking wet up to my calves, this dish just sounded so inviting--like comfort food. The tender, savory pieces of chicken did not dissapoint, and would you look at that nettle puree? A little sliver of heaven.

Duck Breast with Carmalized Endive, Tangerine and Chamomile - $24

If you've read some of our previous posts then you know J has a thing for duck, and loves the contrast of crispy skin and the tenderness of the breast. The duck at Campton Place was nestled on a bed of ginger and sauteed onions, which worked well with the slices of sweet tangerine. As for the avocado, it really didn't add anything to the dish.

Too stuffed for dessert, we reluctantly abandoned our table to brave the rain again. At least we had a good pinot buzz to take with us.

- K

Campton Place
340 Stockton Street at Union Square
San Francisco, CA 94108
415.955.5555

Butternut Squash Ravioli

2007-02-18T08:13:00.000-07:00

Butternut Squash Ravioli

I have a confession to make: Fresh pasta has never been easy for me. In fact, there is one moment in particular that K will never let me live down. I once got so irritated with the pasta I was trying to make that I threw the dough across the kitchen (into the sink mind you). Ever since, K loves to tease me anytime I suggest that we have fresh pasta for dinner. Tonight was no exception; the "flying pasta" jokes were abundant as I searched for a recipe.

Given my history, I figured I would try a different recipe this time. Typically, I do the 2-3/4 cups of flour and 3 eggs recipe, but this time I decided to try the recipe from Thomas Keller's French Laundry Cookbook (the most beautiful cookbook EVER!). His recipe calls for the following:

1-3/4 cups all purpose flour
6 large egg yolks
1 large egg
1-1/2 tsp olive oil
1 Tbsp milk

This recipe turned out so silky smooth. Thank you, Thomas Keller! Since K loves butternut squash (and our neighborhood market happened to have some) we decided to have a very simple butternut squash ravioli with a butter sage sauce.

Usually, when I do this dish I just use the squash (or pumpkin) and some savory fresh herbs, but this time I wanted to add some ricotta cheese to add a little creaminess to the ravioli. Here's the recipe (serves 4):

1 butternut squash
1 minced garlic clove
1/2 sprig of rosemary (leaves only) chopped
1 sprig of thyme (leaves only)
10 sage leaves (more or less -- to taste)
1 Tbsp chopped Italian flat leaf parsley
zest of one lemon
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup ricotta cheese
dash of allspice
dash of ground clove
salt & pepper to taste

Process -

Carefully chop the butternut squash in half (lengthwise) and scoop the seeds out with a spoon. Slice the squash into 1/2" thick slices lengthwise and steam until tender, about 10 minutes. Let squash coool until you can handle it without it burning your fingers. Once it is cool enough use a paring knife (or a spoon) to scoop-out the soft flesh from the skin. Place squash in a mixing bowl and discard the skin.

Add the allspice, ground clove, ricotta cheese, egg yolk, rosemary and thyme. Mix well with a fork until all ingredients are combined.

After mixing, kneading and rolling your pasta dough into thin sheets place about one teaspoon of the filling onto the center of the dough spaced about 1 inch apart. Once you have spooned the filling onto the pasta you can either brush the edges of the pasta sheet with water or egg wash to help seal the pasta (I use egg wash). Finally, fold the pasta in half lengthwise to cover the filling. Gently press down around the mounds of filling to remove any air bubbles that might have formed while folding. After sealing the pasta you can cut between the mounds with a knife or one of those handy pasta wheels.

Meanwhile heat a large pan with salted water until rapidly boiling. While the water is getting up to boil (and the pasta has been prepared) heat a skillet on medium heat and add butter, garlic and sage. Cook until the garlic is aromatic and the sage is just crispy (about 3 minutes).

Once the water is rapidly boiling add the ravioli and cook until they start bouncing at the top of the water (about 4-5 minutes). Gently remove from the water with a slotted spoon and place onto plate. Top with butter sage sauce, parsley and grated parmesan cheese.

What a delicate and rich little treat. Once you get the whole pasta making process down, the rest is simple and so rewarding. (Dough throwing not necessary.)

-J

Tartine Bakery

2007-02-15T07:35:00.000-07:00

Tartine's exterior doesn't bost its name, but with the line of people we found snaking out its door just minutes after they opened on Sunday, we got the impression that the Mission District bakery doesn't need to advertise to draw a crowd. "It's always like this," another customer in line mumbled to her friend. We were starving and in serious need of caffeine, but the sun was finally out and so we were determined to be patient and wait our turn; whining kids, hipsters and all. Too bad not everyone had the same philosophy: the brunette with a mass of dark curls, the redhead who made a big production of arranging paper napkins and silverware on her table for two...and all the other people with bad form who snuck into the tiny bakery as their friend or partner stood in line, and HELD a table. Meanwhile, people who had tried to maintain their manners so early on a Sunday were stuck juggling full cups of coffee and pains du chocolat, with nowhere to sit. Us included. But at least the red head and brunette didn't have to be inconvenienced. Way to pay it forward, ladies.

Fortunately, the treats at Tartine are worth the few bad seeds. J opted for an incredible croque monsieur with sun dried tomatoes and fromage blanc, along with a brioche bread pudding. I kept it simple with a mountain of a croissant, flaky and crisp on the outside, soft and warm on the inside. We would have taken pictures had there been anywhere to sit.

-K

Tartine Bakery
600 Guerrero Street at 18th
San Francisco, CA 94110
415.487.2600

Tsunami Sushi (Sugarhouse)

2007-02-08T06:43:00.000-07:00

When it comes to sushi, I don't need a lavishly appointed restaurant with pagers to notify guests when their table is ready. In fact, I rather prefer to eat my raw fish at a place that is slightly nondescript, where I know the focus is on the fish, not the fashion.

Located next to a dollar flick theater in a strip mall, Tsunami's Sushi in Sugarhouse fits the bill. The service is inconsistent, the location uninspired, but the fish is always fresh and tasty.

Since we hadn't had any sushi since our fun-filled excursion home for Christmas, we decided to combat our withdrawls over the weekend with a visit to Tsnumai. What we were really craving was some escolar nigiri, even though the white fish's "bio" on Wikipedia.com does sort of freak us out.

Lunch Special - $12.95

Featuring:

1/2 California Roll
1/2 Tuna Roll
Eel Nigiri
Escolar Nigiri
Yellowfin Tuna Nigiri
Salmon - Nigiri
Tuna - Nigiri
Miso???

Our server was a bit frosty at first, but she warmed up near the end of our meal, after J took over my glass of bubbly, sneaking sips in between breaks from his own. "I see you're double fisting it now," she joked, a slight upward curve forming on her lips, suggestive of a smile.

We never received the miso that was supposed to come with the lunch special, but in honor of Tsunami's fifth anniversary, we did receive a cute parting gift: complimentary sushi suckers. The sugary concotions are apparently running the restaurant 75 cents each, as the manager shared with our server while sailing by our table. Charming.

-K

Tsunami Sushi (Sugarhouse location)
2223 South Highland Dr
Salt Lake City, UT 84106
(801) 467-5545

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Piccata di Pollo al Limone (Chicken Piccata)

2007-02-06T21:30:00.000-07:00

Occasionally weekends at our house involve a full day dedicated to the process of making homemade stock. After reading the "French Laundry Cookbook" and the Culinary Institute of America's "The Professional Chef", I am always worried I will ruin the clarity by not skimming often enough. Thus my laborious process requires hours and hours of skimming, augmented with jazz curling from the computer and several glasses of wine; the end result hopefully being a beautifully clear and flavorful stock.

This past weekend was one of such weekends and I was left with a couple of chicken breasts that weren't needed for the stock. So, when Monday rolled around and I didn't feel like putting much effort into dinner, here's what I put together with the remaining poultry. This recipe is so easy and quick, yet unbelievably sophisitcated and full of flavor. I love how silky and rich the sauce tastes with the juicy chicken breasts and zesty lemon. Besides, the sauce gave me a chance to use the chicken stock I'd spent all day working on. (Of course a canned stock can also be used, but then I wouldn't have been able to enjoy all those glasses of wine while skimming.)

Recipe --

4 boneless skinless chicken breasts (halves)
1/4 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup dry white wine
3 Tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice
8 thin slices of lemon
2-3 Tbs capers
Olive oil
3 Tbs unsalted butter
1 tsp paprika
pinch of kosher salt
pinch of freshly ground black pepper

Process --

Wrap chicken breasts between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and pound until about 1/4-inch thick. Pat dry with a paper towel and sprinkle chicken breasts with salt, pepper and paprika. Most recipes call for chicken breasts to be lightly dredged in flour with seasonings mixed in. I choose to omit the flour because I like the sauce to have a clear, glassy sheen, and I find that using flour tends to make the sauce cloudy.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and pour enough olive oil to just cover the surface. Sauté chicken breasts until beautifully browned each side (approx. 3 minutes each side). Remove chicken from pan and set aside.

Drain excess fat and oil from pan. Deglaze pan with chicken stock and scrape brown bits (fond) with a wooden spoon. Add wine, lemon juice, lemon slices and simmer until reduced by half then whisk in butter. Strain sauce through a fine strainer (retain lemon slices). Plate the chicken and spoon sauce over the top. Top with the lemon slices and garnish with capers (and thyme leaves or parsley if desired).

It's not Chicken Helper, but it certainly helped me get dinner on the table.

- J

White Bean Soup with Mascarpone

2007-02-03T16:49:00.000-07:00

In the spirit of the season of conversation hearts and overpriced red roses, can I just tell you how much I love my husband? Not only is J the sole cook at our house, he's also a darn good one. His Tuscan bean soup with pancetta and shavings of parmesan reggiano is hands down my favorite bean soup, and I request it all the time. And so he admitted to being a little worried about this new creation, and how I would welcome it to our repertoire of "what's for dinner tonight," given my loyalty to the original. But J needn't worry; this new concoction, with a dollop of mascarpone and porcini mushrooms, is positively scrumptious in its own right. I love the way the cool, creamy masarpone melts in your mouth against the warm, earthy soup.

From the mouth of the cook himself, here's the lowdown:

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 sprig rosemary
1 cup chopped yellow onion
1/2 cup chopped fennel
1 Tbs fresh thyme leaves
2 cans white beans (or soak dried white beans until tender)
2 slices of pancetta (1/4" thick)
1 cup chicken stock
3 Tbs mascarpone cheese
1 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 cups sliced wild mushrooms (I used porcini)
1 Tbs chopped parsley
1 small shallot finely chopped

Process --

Heat 6-qt pan over medium-high heat. Add olive oil and pancetta. Render fat from pancetta (approx. 10 minutes) and remove pancetta from pan. Add rosemary, onion and fennel and cook until softened. Add chicken stock and drained beans and slowly simmer for about 15 minutes.

While the beans are cooking heat a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add butter and a chopped shallot. Cook chopped shallot until sweated (about 1 minute) then add mushrooms. Gently stir the mushrooms until evenly coated with butter and add a pinch of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Let mushrooms cook until they are tender and slightly browned, about 5 minutes (try not to stir too much). Add parsley, a small pinch of the thyme and remove from heat.

When the beans are finished cooking remove from heat and carefully blend with an immersion blender (or in a blender done in several batches) until mixed to a smooth consistency.

Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with sauteed mushrooms. Quenelle (roll between two spoons) a spoonful of mascarpone and softly place into soup.

- K

Imitation is the Most Sincere Form of Flattery

2007-02-01T19:08:00.000-07:00

When I found the cupcake blog, Cupcake Bakeshop by Chockylit, I was smitten. An entire blog dedicated to cupcakes? Kharma is on my side. Inspired by Chockylit's delectable pictures, I decided to give one of the recipes a try.

Chocolate cupcakes with coconut buttercream frosting and shaved chocolate

While I love baking cupcakes, the art of frosting has never been my thing. I am far too ADD to get my ingredients as precise as they need to be for baking. In fact, many years ago, my friend's sister decided to "experiment" on us for her psychology class project, instructing each of us to bake a batch of chocolate chip cookies. We both managed to leave out imperative ingredients: baking powder for me, butter for my friend. Our cookies looked and tasted like shit, and my friend's sister got an A.

So as I delved into this buttercream frosting I read and reread the simple recipe at least a dozen times. Still, my frosting turned out pretty wet at first attempt, until J added a little sugar. I frosted a few cakes for our company that were due within the hour, and stuck the bowl of frosting in the fridge to see if that would help. By the following afternoon, it was firm and the coconut flavor was finally coming through; much better. I slathered frosting on the rest of the devilish cakes, knocking back two a day until they were gone. Chockylit's version certainly look prettier, but I guess you can't judge a book by its cover, because my clumsier version still tasted like a little piece of heaven. Chockylit: my hips and I thank you.

- K

Sturgeon General

2007-01-29T21:00:00.000-07:00

California White Sturgeon with Ginger, Lemongrass and Coconut Sauce

I wandered into Aquarius Fish Company on Saturday hoping to find some insipration as to what to cook for dinner. I had spent most of the day at the office and needed to turn my brain off for the rest of the weekend. Whatever I was going to cook needed to be easy, yet still provide me room to play.

I selected two fillets of Sturgeon and made my way to Wild Oats, searching for additional inspiration as to how to prepare the fish. Staring out the window at the cold gray weather, I decided to use Thai flavors as my inspiration. I picked up some lemongrass, lemons, ginger, basil, serrano peppers, squash, bell pepper and coconut milk.

I made a sauce out of diced shallots, minced garlic, sliced ginger, slice lemongrass, butter, coconut milk and vegtable stock. I let the sauce reduce for a while as I pan seared the Sturgeon. After lightly searing the surface of the fish I covered it with lemon, lime and bay leaf and wrapped it in tin foil. I slid it into the oven for about 10 minutes until it was just cooked through. I quickly sauteed the sunburst squash, slipped it on top of the sauce and placed the fish on top. Easy like Sunday morning.

This dish, which I threw together with nothing but the idea of a tropical flavor, turned out to be be quite lively and indulgent. If I closed my eyes I could imagine being someplace warm and humid. But alas it was time to go outside and salt the ice off of our front steps.

- J

Martine

2007-01-28T15:53:00.000-07:00

I wish I could say that Salt Lake City is full of lovely historic brownstones like the one that houses Martine. But Martine's historic structure is a sliver of East Coast charm plunked down in the Intermountain West, making dining at this beautiful restaurant even more special.

When ensconced in Martine's long, thin railroad flat rooms, we feel uniquely removed from life, obligations and the Jell-O culture which surrounds us on a daily basis. As we sip wine and feast on tapas we truly feel there is no place else we could--or should--be. With tall ceilings, cozy booths and white candles burning in glass votives, Martine is romantic--without trying too hard. And while Martine's interior is polished, and the menu interesting, the prices are surprisingly accessible. (A choice of entree with a tapa is just $28.) It's the perfect recipe for a carefree night out.

Pan Seared Calimari with Pimenta Lime Jus and Black Beluga Lentils

I love lime and calamari, but this was a little on the drenched side. (Think sourpuss face when you take a bite.) I was hoping the lentils would have had a chance to stand out more.

Grilled Duck with Pear and Blue Cheese

This trio of flavors seemed to dance in J's mouth in perfect harmony.

Grilled Pheasant with Woodland Mushroom Ragout

A very rustic and earthy combination. Like slipping into a cozy, warm farmhouse on a cold winter's day.

Almond Crusted Black Cod with Clementine Veloute and Preserved Lemon Risotto Cake

The cod was tender and the risotto was subtle. I think a few more mushrooms would have livened the quiet dish up a bit, but I still managed to cleaned my plate.

Balsamic Marinated Morgan Valley Lamb Sirloin with Bleu D'Auvergene Cream, Rosemary Roasted Fingerling Potatoes

J's favorite dish of the evening. Cooked perfectly, it was juicy and sumptuous. You just can't go wrong when marrying lamb and rosemary. We're glad to see the restaurant supporting local producers that are hormone free and practice sustainable agriculture.

Grilled Gingerbread with Caramel and House Gelato - $7

This is quite possibly one of my favorite desserts. It is not overly rich, and provides just the right dose of sweet after a savory meal. The gelato seemed almost fluffy on this particular evening. Love it, love it, love it!

We did bring our own vino, but since Martine's wine markup is minimal, you can order a bottle off the menu and not feel like you've been had.

- K

Martine
22 East 100 South
Salt Lake City, UT 84111
801-363-9328

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Our Arugula Runneth Over

2007-01-24T08:02:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend we made a very belated "Christmas" dinner for K's brother and his wife. For part of this meal I recreated a dish we enjoyed recently at Cucina Toscana here in Salt Lake City, "Rosso, Bianco, Verde". It is a wonderful collection of simple flavors provided by crab, tomatoes, Belgian endive and arugula. We managed to stuff our guests, but we were still left with quite a bit of arugula afterward (as well as a trio of cheeses from the cheese plate).

Here's what we did on a lazy weeknight with arugula and cheese to spare...

Crostini with melted cheese, olive tapenade and arugula. This is so simple, yet tasty.

Ingredients:
1 cup pitted kalamata olives
1 Tbsp capers
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
2 tsp lemon zest
2 Tbsp olive oil
fresh ground pepper to taste
semi firm cheese of choice (I prefer gruyere, or swiss)
thinly sliced bread (I prefer Italian rustic loaf)
2 cups baby arugula

Combine kalamata olives, capers, lemon juice, 1 tsp lemon zest and 2 Tbsp olive oil in food processor for a few seconds until combined (not too fine). In a mixing bowl combine arugula, 1 tsp lemon zest, dash of salt and olive oil. Meanwhile slice bread and place in broiler. When bread is lightly toasted remove from oven and flip it so toasted side is face down on pan. Place sliced cheese on top of bread and return to broiler until cheese is just melted. Remove from oven and top with olive tapenade and seasoned arugula.

Pour yourself some wine and enjoy. It sure beats a TV dinner.

- J

Chilling and Grilling

2007-01-14T13:08:00.000-07:00

It has been a frigid weekend here in Salt Lake City, but that wasn't enough to keep me from firing up the grill and making one damn good burger. As you might have noticed, I really love a good burger. I have had many wonderful burgers from all over this great country, and I am always on the lookout for the next great one, but one of my all time favorites is my very own creation.

Here's the breakdown for one fine burger:

1/3 pound of organic, family farm raised ground beef
2 cloves of garlic minced
2 serrano peppers finely diced
2 fresh basil leaves finely diced
1/4 teaspoon chili powder
Maytag Blue cheese
fresh organic mixed greens
fresh tomato slices (insecticide free "Wyomatoes" this time around)
salt and pepper to taste

I gently wrap the garlic, diced peppers, diced basil leaves and chili powder into the beef and top with salt and pepper so the flavors combine and cook through. While cooking on the grill I slice the tomatoes and season the greens with a dash of olive oil and salt. After flipping the patty I place the Maytag Blue cheese on top to melt slightly (I try no to add too much, as the flavor can overpower everything else). Finally, I lightly toast the bun and pull it all together.

The garlic, peppers and chili powder give it a nice kick up front, while the basil softens everything at the end. The Maytag Blue cheese is simply a perfect match with beef (this applies to steaks as well). It is pure heaven...enough to make me momentarily forget that I was standing outside grilling in 15-degree weather.

-J

Cucina Toscana

2007-01-10T21:54:00.000-07:00

We've been feeling pretty guilty that we haven't blogged about any local Salt Lake City restaurants in so long (and still haven't so much as mentioned some of our favorites). We had every intention of having a nice little list for Sundance visitors to review, but with a packed few months of travel neither our calendar nor our budget afforded us the chance.

With the Sundance Film Festival about a week away we figured we should visit at least one of our local favs and give people something to think about while packing their Sundance starter kit (furry boots, furry hat, and puffy jacket). We made a quick reservation at one of our favorite downtown Salt Lake City restaurants: Cucina Toscana.

Although done in a trattoria style, Cucina Toscana delivers the kind of impeccable service one would expect from a formal dining experience. From the time you check in with the host staff to the moment Valter, the cute Italian owner, sweeps past your table with a rolling "Buona Sera", you are treated like a special guest at a friend's home. Sometimes, Valter and his staff even surprise you with a plate of bruschetta on the house. But my favorite part about Valter is how he always looks stylish and pulled together in his fashionable Italian suits. In a city of climbing pants and fleece, Valter's attention to attire is a breath of fresh air.

Many locals still seem to have the misconception that Cucina Toscana is expensive and a "special occasion" spot. While it is certainly a lovely venue for toasting a birthday or celebrating an anniversary, Cucina Toscana features an extensive menu of affordable standards and more refined specials. A half order of penne arrabbiata will run you a mere $5.95, whereas a fresh risotto of the day may cost upwards of $22. It truly is a menu with something for everyone.

J started with the Rosso, Bianco, Verde - $11.50

The crab was succulent and mouth watering. The tomatoes were juicy and sweet, providing a unique contrast to the bitter belgian endive. Truly a smooth way to start the dinner. In fact, the dish prompted J to remark, "You know, crab is really seafood with training wheels."

Insalate Mista - $6

The staff wheel a little cart out to your table and toss the salad of fresh greens in front of you. The end result is a bountiful plate of greens lightly dressed in their vinagarette and topped with freshly grated cheese. And the price? Fahgettaboutit!

Escolar alla Peperonata - $26

We've been eating a lot of escolar lately, in the way of sushi. This was the first time we've ever tried it cooked. When cooked, the white fish took on a taste and consistency similar to crab. The bell pepper and white wine sauce had a sweet and vibrant flavor. It was amazing.

Gnocchi all Arrabbiata - $18

I am a wimp when it comes to spice but I always get a "kick" out of this zesty dish of handmade gnocchi and spicy tomato sauce. The gnocchi is so delicate; it positively melts in your mouth.

Corkage of one of our last bottles of Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir: $10

Alas, we had no room for dessert, but if YOU do, we encourage you to try the turkish coffee gelato with a shot of espresso poured over it. You'll feel like you really are in Tuscany, sans the jet lag.

- K

Cucina Toscana
307 West Pierpont Avenue
Salt Lake City, UT
801.328.DINE (3463)

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Salt Lake Citrus

2007-01-08T19:50:00.000-07:00

When life gives you lemons, make risotto.

In our den we have a little galvanized metal bin that is supposed to hold a few of our "current" magazines for perusing. What has happened over the past year is what I like to refer to as the leaning tower of mags: a spiraling stack of past issues of Wine Spectactor, Gourmet, Saveur, Dwell, Budget Traveler and Food & Wine. Over the recent gray and cold winter weekend we just had, we got on a bit of a recycling kick, and began trying to filter through the issues.

We didn't get very far (what we now have is six small stacks instead of one big one) but we did happen upon the May 2006 issue of Saveur with a delicious collection of recipes featuring lemons, including a risotto al limone and mozzarella al limone. The recipes made us yearn for summer, when bubbly tastes even better than it does the rest of the year, and fresh basil from the garden is standard with every meal. And so we channeled summer last night through these lovely dishes--no sunscreen needed.

Risotto al Limone

Mozzarella al Limone

All this citrus got us so excited that we booked a trip to Miami in April. So if you have any restaurant recommendations, please send them our way.

- K

Adventures in Foam Part II

2007-01-06T22:22:00.000-07:00

The last time I tried to create a mushroom foam it did not turn out quite as planned. The foam ended up with a mousse-like consistency rather than the frothy foam that I was hoping for. I decided to try it again, this time using an immersion blender to get the bubbles.

So I went back online to ask if anyone had any helpful suggestions for my next attempt. After posting on Chowhound--and wading through all of the foam-hater comments--one helpful user left a link to a handy little blender used mostly for frothing milk for lattes. This blender was a fraction of the cost of an immersion blender ($20 compared to $100+), so K & I went to the nearest Bed Bath & Beyond to get one of these budget blenders for my foam experience, part deux.

Next we went to Aquarius to get the freshest white fish we could find. We were hoping to try it with Escolar or Sea Bass, but they were out so we went with Parrot Fish instead.

This time I decided to change a few of the other ingredients and steps while trying a new foaming method. First, I opted for a turnip puree rather than cauliflower. I find turnip puree to be creamier than cauliflower puree...even if I simmer the cauliflower in cream. Next, I separated the mushrooms from the mushroom jus, rather than blend it all together before foaming. The reason for this was two-fold: (1) I would use the sauteed mushrooms as part of the dish, and (2) I figured the mushroom jus would would foam better if it had a thinner consistency.

The dish turned out much better than last time. The foam was more of the airy consistency I was after and the flavor was perfectly light and earthy. The Parrot Fish was a little firmer in texture than Sea Bass, but still delicious. Oh, and the whole experience was far less messy than my first attempt!

- J

BOKA Kitchen + Bar

2007-01-02T20:23:00.001-07:00

We'd been looking forward to our eats in Seattle over Christmas for a few months, so when I came down with a terrible cold a week before our trip we were both crushed. Completely congested and void of the ability to taste, I gave the sad vote that we postpone dinner at our beloved Mistral until our next visit to the Emerald City. Given the pretty penny one can spend there, J kindly agreed. But one meal that we couldn't cancel was lunch with J's dad and stepmom at the new urban hangout BOKA Kitchen + Bar. Jingle bells.

We sat in a corner booth with a funky glass wall that kept changing colors, which altered the hue of everything around us. This positively tickled J's stepmom, who couldn't get over the fact that every few minutes the Christmas ornaments in a vase at our booth were a different color!

Warm Dungeness Crab Cupcakes - $5

Crème fraiche frosting, saffron salt sprinkles. I get positively giddy over little bites like this. I love when something so small is afforded so much frivolity.

Duck and Waffles - $4

Confit of duck, pistachio waffle, glazed cherries. J found these to be fun and experimental.

Mushroom Bisque - $7

Comfort food for the common cold. I sucked this baby down. I'm sure the baked parmessan crisp floating in the center was good for the sinuses.

American Wagyu Burger - $12

Fontina, tomato confit, grilled onions, truffle fries. Definitely the juiciest burger J's ever had. He said that if he wasn't careful the juice would have been dripping down his sleeves. Even J's dad, who pretends to be a vegetarian, enjoyed it.

I particularly enjoyed the truffle fries, mainly because I could actually taste them! I helped J with his and ordered an extra side for myself.

BOKA Kitchen + Bar is attached to the modernly appointed Hotel 1000, which has a comfortable lobby and funky gift shop. And since I am a freak about bathrooms, I have to add that BOKA shares a fabulous bathroom with the sleek hotel, complete with concrete counters and indulgent Molton Brown hand soap.

The following afternoon, while shoppers made their mad dash through Pacific Place for last minute gifts, J and I selfishly snuck back to BOKA for an afternoon of small bites and pinot noir. While we ultimately took heat from family for doing so (can't wait 'til next Christmas...perhaps a deserted beach in Mexico) it was well worth the guilt.

- K

BOKA Kitchen + Bar
1010 First Avenue
Seattle, WA 98104

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Cupcake Royale (West Seattle)

2006-12-31T20:55:00.000-07:00

Picture it: Christmas 2005, and we are driving around Seattle with my dear grandfather behind the wheel, headed to the Cupcake Royale in Ballard. I have never been to the sweet spot but as a cupcake fan, I'm already convinced that I will love it. Grandpa has taken several wrong turns (though we would never point this out) and we are winding around a residential neighborhood near Northgate mall. (Which if you know Seattle then you know is nowhere near Ballard.) To make a long story short, a driver in what we think was a stolen car (he was also talking on his cell phone, maybe calling his probation officer) suddenly came at us, driving the WRONG way on our side of the road, and with no intention of stopping. We watched in horror as his front bumper neared ours, before he hopped the curb, slid between our car and a stop sign, and kept going. No one was much in the mood for cupcakes after that.

This year J and I took matters into our own hands, renting a nice sedan upon our arrival at SeaTac. In the year's time Cupcake Royale has established a new location in West Seattle, an area we know and love. We made a beeline for the California Avenue location near Easy Street Records, where all my sweet dreams about the bakery finally came true.

My personal favorite: the Coconut Bunny - $2

Vanilla frosting topped with coconut. Available in chocolate or vanilla cake. I haven't been able to stop thinking about it.

Lavender - $2

A little sweet, even for me. But J was a good sport and ate it.

A dozen cupcakes for the road - A cool $22

After the car experience in 2005, the least we could do was take some cupcakes to my grandparents.

- K

Cupcake Royale (West Seattle location)
4556 California Avenue SW
Seattle, WA 98116
206.932.2971

Zoë Restaurant & Bar

2006-12-29T18:20:00.000-07:00

After a morning of beignets and strolling around the French Quarter, we were ready for a little lunch and a glass of wine. Always appreciative of the clean lines and hip vibe of W Hotels, we headed to one of the two W's operating in New Orleans. The W New Orleans (the other property is called the W French Quarter) re-opened in June to the public. We're told that in the months following Katrina the property was home to many hotel staff and insurance representatives in the area to assess damage.

A few guests mingled in the vast lobby and Christmas garland looped the stairwells and framed doorways, suggesting that after a difficult 16 months, the W New Orleans has much to celebrate.

Zoë Restaurant & Bar is located on the second floor of the swanky hotel, and during busier times is probably fairly happening. We also think that the W New Orleans may be more of a business traveler's property (and thus busier during the week), whereas the French Quarter location may appeal to more of the pleasure and weekend travelers. On this particular Saturday, we were unfortunately the only people dining at Zoë. A stark contrast to the night before at Restaurant August, located a mere block away.

The Dining Room has pretty green chairs and kalamata colored walls that warm up the sleek chocolate accents.

It was a Caprese Salad with house made mozzarella

J thought the mozzarella was soft and creamy but unfortunately the tomatoes were out of season. Note to self: ordering anything with tomatoes post autumn can be risky.

Beef Carpaccio with Mixed Greens and Shaved Parmessan

If you've read some of our other blogs then you know I've never met a carpaccio I didn't like. The meat was a little overwhelmed by the greens, but I still managed to clean my plate.

Crab Cakes with Caviar and Wasabi Aioli

These little packages of flaky crab were delightful. J liked the nice little "pop" provided by the caviar.

Butternut Squash Puree with White Truffle Foam

Like a dish of sweet candy, only better. This puree was fresh and tasty, though the "foam" wasn't so foamy; more of a cream. Still, the earthiness of the truffle really completmented the nutty flavor of the squash.

Kobe Beef Burger with Blue Cheese

It was supposed to be medium. Disappointing because it was so dried out. At least the blue cheese provided a nice dipping sauce for J's fries.

The service was friendly and attentive, and the decor was right up our alley. The food just needs a little work.

Zoë Restaurant & Bar
at the W New Orleans
333 Poydras Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
504.525.9444

Adventures in Foam Part I

2006-12-29T08:29:00.001-07:00

After a short, but intense trip to Seattle to spend Christmas with family, I really needed a therapeutic cooking session. Cooking is one of the best ways to let your mind forget about everything else and just concentrate on the task at hand.

So I went to our local fish market Aquarius and picked up some Sea Bass in hopes of recreating a wonderful dish we had at Fleur de Sel in New York. It was Hake on cauliflower and truffle puree with a mushroom foam. Absolutely devine and airy. How hard could it be, right?

After a little research online, I found a recipe for something similar that involved a whipped creamer and CO2. My other option was to use gelatin and an immersion blender. I figured the whipped creamer method would work best.

So, I sautéed the mushrooms (shitake, porcini, and black trumpet) with shallots, garlic, rosemary and thyme; deglazed with white wine and reduced; added cream and vegetable stock and reduced again; and finally, blended and placed in the whipper and loaded the CO2. All good, so I thought.

After pan searing the Sea Bass and preparing the cauliflower puree I was ready to plate the dish and add the foam. I thought it might be a good idea to first try out the foam on an empty plate. I turned the whipper upside down and pulled the trigger. Whoah, foam everywhere! It shot foam all the way into the living room, all over the back splash, all over the cabinets...EVERYWHERE! Myself included. Lucky for me, K is in charge of laundry at our house.

I quickly changed course and decided to unleash the fury of the foam within a mixing bowl placed deep in our sink, and simply spoon the foam onto the plate. So, here's how the dish turned out:

I definitely need to work on my presentation. Maybe put the foam on top of the puree and place the fish on top. I was hoping the foam would be bubbly and light, but it turned out more like a mousse. Perhaps I should have omitted the cream, or maybe I put too much CO2 in the whipper. I don't know, so if anyone has any tips please let me know. I might also try the immersion blender technique next and see how that turns out. The dish certainly tasted great-- unfortunately it just looked odd.

After all was said and done, any linguring stress from the Christmas adventure was long gone.

- J

Restaurant August

2006-12-27T21:44:00.000-07:00

Upon receiving an invitation to attend a Christmas party in Baton Rouge, we decided to make a mini-vacation out of it and spend some time in New Orleans as well. The once lively city of New Orleans has been positively devastated by Katrina, and close to a year and a half later the Big Easy is still struggling in ways that are no longer "breaking news." A drive through the lower ninth ward, where block-upon-block of homes remain abandoned suggests how many broken hearts are still in need of mending--and how many lives have been forever changed.

Quite honestly, I was a little saddened by the bargain room rate we received at luxurious boutique hotel International House ($99/night) because I cannot imagine how much businesses in New Orleans must be writing off as loss. We encourage you to visit this cultural and historic city and help bring some life--and revenue--back to the businesses that chose to reopen after the hurricane; when it would have been so much easier for them to just walk away.

We performed a little reasearch online and found Restaurant August which is located in the warehouse district. The restaurant is housed in an historic four-story Creole-French building with exposed brick walls and charming wood work. Chandeliers glitter from the ceiling, dark hardwood floors gleam their reflection, and attractive host staff scoot around in ballet flats and black tulle.

The place was packed and thriving. It was hard to believe the hopping restaurant exists in the same city as the empty high-rise buildings we'd strolled past earlier. Things started off well with our server introducing himself and his colleague, who would both be waiting on us for the evening. We ordered our choices a la carte, and sat back to enjoy a glass of bubbly.

It soon became apparent though that while we'd booked our dinner for 8:30, the staff at Restaurant August were still planning to turn our table over again before night's end. Case in point: the amuse bouche.

Amuse Bouche - Truffle Sabayonne with Caviar

I had taken a few bites of this richly beautiful dish, and was sitting with spoon in mid-air, preparing to take another, when a man from the kitchen showed up with our first course and quickly grabbed the amuse bouche right out from in front of me. I'm not kidding. No "can I move this aside for you," or "where would you like me to put your salad." He just scooped that amuse bouche right up and walked away with it. I was speechless.

Organic Greens with Pumpkin Seed Brittle, Point Reyes Blue Cheese, and Pumpkin Seed Oil Vinagarette - $8

This was delicious. The sweetness of the brittle complemented the pungent cheese. Like sneaking dessert before your dinner. I sort of wolfed it down in fear that it would be taken from me before I was finished.

Foie Gras Prepared Three Ways - $16

Foie Gras Fried with Ginger and Caviar
Tangine with German Pastry and Champagne Gelee
Foie Gras with Beef Tongue

J's favorite of the three preparations was the Foie Gras with Beef Tongue. He really enjoyed the bold flavors of the dueling meats. The fried foie gras was quite delcious as well, mostly due to the contrast in textures between the silky foie and the crunchy breaded outside (oh, and the caviar did not dissapoint). The Tangine with German Pastry was enjoyable, but whenever you have three options one must always finish last, even though it might still be amazing. He did have to admit that the Champagne gelee was a very nice touch. It was somewhere between Champagne diamonds and good ol' Jell-O shots.

Handmade Potato Gnocchi tossed with Blue Crab and White Truffle - $20

The gnocchi was soft and velvety, and the portion was just the right size for the rich crab and white truffle.

Joe Dobi's Chestnut Agnolotti with Sage, Brown Butter and Country Ham - $10

Wow, what a perfect Autumn dish. J loved the subtle Chestnut filling within the pillowy-light agnolotti. The Country Ham provided a nice crisp contrast to the delicate pasta.

Louisiana Redfish with Cauliflower, Crabmeat and Caviar -$29

This was J's favorite dish. The fish was light and moist and worked perfectly with the airy cauliflower foam. The crab and caviar were simply the icing on the cake!

Pompano with Cauliflower Puree and Artichoke - $32

While the food was very good, the courses came out far too quick, and the delivery just lacked any suggested passion for the food. By the time we were done with our fish we realized we'd been there less than an hour. After a rushed meal we just weren't in the mood for dessert. We vacated our table to allow for the next diners, and headed elsewhere in search of something sweet.

I'm not sure if the service at Restaurant August is due in part to poor service (because with a drastically reduced population good help is hard to find), or if management is trying to get people in-and-out as quickly as possible to maximize profit. We can certainly understand the restaurant's desire to increase revenue during hard times, but when you are spending close to $300 on a meal the service should feel different than a fast food joint. Even if they don't want you camping at your table for the evening, the suggestion should be that you are welcome to do so. While turning the tables over quickly may be profitable, it does not leave diners with the kind of unforgettable experience that will last long after the credit card bill arrives.

Bottom line: Great food...Fast.

Restaurant August
301 Tchoupitoulas Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
504.299.9777